Malmesbury, sitting above the River Avon, is not only one of the most scenic and unspoilt towns in England, but ideally placed for exploring the many other enchanting locations dotted around the Cotswolds. Designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty since 1966, the 787 square miles of the Cotswolds is the third-largest protected landscape in England following the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales and if you’re looking for a hotel with abundant history and character partnered with quirky and eclectic design, the Grade I listed Old Bell couldn’t be a better base for an atmospheric winter break. Dating from 1220 and said to be the oldest hotel in England, it neighbours the magnificent Malmesbury Abbey whose visiting dignitaries would stay at The Old Bell back when it was a simple hostelry.
The Old Bell boasts 34 individually designed bedrooms and suites along with three inviting public lounges with comfortable armchairs and sofas, antiques and oil paintings, William Morris wallpaper and crackling log fires – the perfect spot for the Old Bell’s cream or full afternoon tea with buttermilk scones, clotted cream and homemade seasonal jam if ever there was one. There are beams and beautiful architectural details throughout, while the impressive stone fireplace in the bar connects to what is thought to be one of the first flue chimneys in England.
The Old Bell is even rumoured to be haunted, a prerequisite when staying in the Cotswolds surely? Probably a myth stemming from the likelihood that the hotel’s east wing was built on part of the Abbey’s churchyard and that several sarcophagi lie concealed beneath the bar. Spirits could have something to do with it and perhaps it’s because neither of us drink that we didn’t catch a glimpse of the Grey Lady who is the most famous visitor from the other side; reported to frequent the James Ody Room when the words “Grey Lady” are spoken three times. Guests in the Danvers Room once claimed to have had their bedclothes thrown around the room by an unknown entity, while those staying in the Foe Room were apparently locked in, with a heavy wardrobe pushed against the door. How utterly thrilling!
Far from any eerie vibes, Texan owners Kim and Whit Hanks, who also purchased neighbouring Grade I listed Abbey House and Gardens, have evoked a home-from-home feel throughout The Old Bell thanks to a sensitive renovation and redesign which is still in progress, with a new outside offering planned for next year. There’s a welcoming coffee bar in the reception area and guests are offered a complimentary hot drink or glass of prosecco on arrival, along with a very warm welcome. As you explore further you’ll come across giraffes (not real alas) in the hall with its striking Victorian tiled floor, a wicker motorcycle, a bowl of glass fruit, Staffordshire Spaniels and a host of religious artefacts in a nod to their proximity to the Abbey. Somehow or other owner Kim, who took charge of the design, has made it work for although a Medieval property, the many additions made to the property over the following centuries lend the present interior a curious variety of architectural styles which harmonise well with the owners’ eye for intriguing art.
The design of our Athelstan Master suite, named after King Athelstan, the first king of England whose tomb is located within Malmesbury Abbey is particularly breathtaking. A spacious room featuring a separate entrance, superking bed, romantic pink floral wallpaper, stone fireplace and wooden latch doors and an en suite with stocked with Bramley toiletries. Sofa seating, a flat screen TV, fridge and tea and coffee making with Teapig and Wiltshire roasted coffee accompanied by delicious home-made shortbread ensure maximum comfort while the dual aspect windows of the suite not only offered wonderful dappled light on the golden autumn afternoon on which we checked in, but views of the pretty street to the front of the hotel and the rear courtyard.
A picturesque setting in the warmer months, the characterful courtyard of The Old Bell offers an opportunity to admire the ancient architecture of the hotel and a glimpse of the Malmesbury Abbey ruins which tower above, while the River Avon rushes past the bottom of the garden where a pretty dovecot-styled folly is due to open next season as an enchanting private dining venue. Dinner at the hotel’s high ceilinged Abbey Row restaurant painted with 8000 stars. Headed up by award-winning Executive Chef, Leigh Evans, it’s a must when staying here and every bit as comforting as you want from a Cotswold retreat.
With a menu featuring local produce and changing seasonally, my starter of white onion soup was good for the soul on a cold winter’s night and the Tunworth cheese gougère centrepiece worthy of Ducasse himself. The venison main course was equally impressive, featuring a tender loin with a mushroom and onion tartlet and mushroom ketchup, accompanied by smoked garlic mash, pickled red cabbage and a fabulously rich and glossy jus. Although the restaurant serves an excellent selection of pub classics to ensure that there’s something to please everyone, I’m glad that I sampled one of the more elaborate and refined à la carte dishes so as to get a true sense of the cookery on offer.
Breakfast is also served in the restaurant with a selection of cooked to order dishes and a continental buffet that set us up for a day of sightseeing, armed with the hotel’s guide of the local area which they left in our room; Westonbirt Arboretum and Highgrove Gardens, along with the well-heeled town of Tetbury, famous for its antiques shops are all less than a 15 minute drive away. If you want a cosy and historic Cotswold hotel well placed for exploring the local sights, boasting comfortable and stylish interiors, a seriously good restaurant and staff who can’t do enough to make you comfortable then The Old Bell strikes the right note.
The Old Bell Hotel, Abbey Row, Malmesbury, Wiltshire, SN16 0BW. For reservations and more information, visit the website.
