London is not short of places to go and eat high-end seafood. The excellent Lyon’s in Crouch End is testament to the fact that this most land-locked of cities, 50 miles from the open sea, nevertheless brings in the most consistently excellent selection of fish and crustaceans that you could wish for.
Soho, in particular, has more than its fair share of fine places, from the legendary J. Sheekey to Randall & Aubin, and I remain a great admirer of the small but perfectly formed Maresco. So it was with some expectation that I ventured into the Dutch import, The Seafood Bar, on the Dean Street location of what used to be The Red Fort. Was it going to be a winner, or surplus to requirements?
The room is stylish, all light wood and Scandi stylings; we order two glasses of crisp house champagne and enjoy a fine trio of tempura oysters – very well done indeed – as we start to get our bearings. This is a buzzy, fun place, priced reasonably and sensibly for central London and with the virtue of enormous simplicity in its offerings, which are fresh, delicious and feel as if you’re by the seaside, rather than dozens of miles from it.
Fancy kicking off with some very fine scallops, served with a dollop of chorizo, or perfectly presented calamari that’s been grilled and presented with tartare sauce? Well, you’re in luck. And then the mains are even better, being a special of sea bream and an exceptionally fine monkfish fillet.
We are advised by our waiter that, because they’re running low on staff, we’ll have to do our best with serving up the sea bream ourselves, but, fortified by a bottle of splendidly drinkable Gavi, we do a decent job, armed with fine side dishes including mashed potato, excellent truffle and parmesan chips and a very virtuous mixed salad.
We don’t have time for dessert, alas, but that isn’t the raison d’etre here. You come to the Seafood Bar for excellent fish, superb wine, friendly and convivial service and the chance to relax in Soho for a couple of hours before heading out into the evening, refreshed and happy. And that’s where it succeeds on every conceivable point. The sea may be a long way away, but its produce is to be found here, and you’ll lap it up gleefully. Promise.
The Seafood Bar, 77 Dean Street, Soho. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.theseafoodbar.com.
