Following a riveting Olympics where the world fell for Paris anew, Alice Payne reviews the five-star Castille hotel, in the heart of the city of light…
Partway along Rue Cambon, just moments from the Seine, the Castille hotel occupies one of the most quintessential locations Paris could offer. In the upmarket 1st Arrondissement, this elegant sidestreet is encircled by the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, Place Vendôme and the Palais Garnier.
Not to be outshone by its illustrious neighbours, Rue Cambon has its own place in French history: next door to the Castille is the eponymous Maison Chanel – the label’s flagship store where Mademoiselle Coco opened her first atelier, while just a few doors down is the Ritz’s iconic Bar Hemingway, named for its legendary patron.
So far, so Parisian. But as Hemmingway (and his mixologists) would approve, there’s a twist; the Castille is firmly Italian. It’s part of the family-owned Italian group, Starhotels Collezione, and as their only destination in France, the Castille offers a unique blend of French style and Italian hospitality.
Stretching seamlessly across three 18th century mansions, the hotel’s classic façade of pale stone and black wrought-iron Juliet balconies is adorned with cascading ivy and fuchsia cyclamen, brightening the street on a rainy day. Inside, the reception is warm. My bags are whisked away and I’m led to the lobby – an inviting room bathed in natural light, with fresh-cut flowers, areca palms, antiques and velvet sofas in yellow and cornflower blue, matching the blue walls. The Castille’s individuality is the antithesis of a chain hotel. Oil paintings, a metal chess set and an intricate 18th century roll-top bureau make it feel like a luxurious private residence – a sense amplified by Cambon and Capucine, two pampered Russian blue cats who preside over the ground floor.
If downstairs feels like being a guest in someone’s handsome home, upstairs I seem to acquire my own apartment. My suite is a stunning two-storey affair with a living room, two spacious carrara marble bathrooms and a staircase leading to a large mezzanine bedroom, all framed by double-height windows overlooking the street.
In contrast to the colourful palette downstairs, the rooms shimmer in soft, buttery shades of gold and cream, offset by an ornate black floral wallpaper motif, black lacquered wood floors and monochrome photographs of old Parisian scenes. The Castille’s five-star quality radiates – from the king-sized Starbed mattress and curatable pillow menu to the fresh flowers, gifts and blend of artisanal French and Italian indulgences awaiting me, including macarons and champagne, and Italian amaretti – flanked by the requisite Illy coffee machine.
This devotion to Italian quality extends to the hotel’s L’Assaggio restaurant, helmed by Chef Sasha Arandjelovic and Michelin-starred chef and Italian Truffle Ambassador, Ugo Alciati. Together they’ve created a menu showcasing the best of Piedmontese cuisine; an homage to the region, offering an innovative take on traditional recipes.
Using Piedmont’s wealth of seasonal ingredients, each dish is curated to pair flavours and textures in sumptuous combinations. A small, delicately layered cabbage flan topped with edible flowers and diced anchovies is perfectly balanced; a dish of poached egg, turnip greens, aged parmesan cheese and abundant shavings of Alba black truffle arrives looking like an artwork; meat agnolotti del plin (‘pinched pasta’, like ravioli) glistens in a delicate coating of sauce, while other sauceless agnolotti arrive under napkins, to be eaten by hand as tradition dictates.
The main course – guinea fowl supreme layered over brioche bread with chicken liver mousse, marsala sauce and a light berry topping – melds in subtle harmonies of sweet and savoury. Dessert, meanwhile, is a testament to the Castille’s dedication to sharing the finest Italian produce. Three types of fior di latte milk are brought from the motherland and blended daily in-house to create the freshest, creamiest ice cream, served with a platter of salted butter caramel, red fruit coulis and crumble – to be added at whim. I eat it wistfully, aware it’s probably ruining ice cream for me forever.
Dinner is a lengthy and entertaining affair with Alessandra, the Castille’s charismatic general manager, who recounts the story of a feline photoshoot at the Castille, where famed neighbour Choupette – Karl Lagerfeld’s fluffy heiress – was guest of honour. Needless to say, the feline stars of Rue Cambon did not care to share the spotlight. Alessandra, meanwhile, is extremely accommodating, arranging last-minute VIP tickets to the in-demand Dior exhibition for the next day, in addition to our tour of Paris’s magnificent Palais Garnier.
The Castille’s concierge is part of the prestigious Les Clefs d’Or association and operates with a warm attentiveness that makes me feel like a repeat guest, despite this being my first stay. I get the sense that nothing is too much trouble: cocktails are crafted to my taste; a packed lunch prepared for my onward journey; and my bedroom meticulously transformed for sleep whilst I dine. And sleep I do, until the lure of breakfast finally draws me from my soporific enclave. As I get ready for the day, I reflect how the beauty of the Castille is the contrast of its quietude with the sense that Paris awaits just outside. I can still hear the city but in a gentle, unobtrusive way that simply reminds me not to spend the entire time luxuriating in my suite.
There are more overt reminders that Paris beckons, however, as some of the hotel’s 108 rooms and suites offer views of the Eiffel Tower. The Castille’s most impressive lodging is the Dolce Vita Apartment – a spacious champagne-toned, three-bedroom suite with an expansive living room, curtained four-poster bed and elegant, contemporary design.
Downstairs, over a fulsome breakfast buffet replete with exotic fruits, cooked goods, pastries, cakes, breads, spreads, cheeses and even a chocolate fountain, I admire the hotel’s courtyard – which has a more traditional fountain of its own. The courtyard’s early 20th century frescoes depict the conquest of the New World by the Spaniards and were commissioned when the building was the private residence of a Spanish royal heir – inspiring the hotel’s name. It must have been an enviable domain. Yet, working through my breakfast banquet, I reflect how the Castille’s welcoming atmosphere, five-star quality and bespoke hospitality means one needn’t be royalty to feel like it here.
For more information about the Castille hotel, or to book, please visit www.collezione.starhotels.com.
