It is a truth universally acknowledged that London has some very, very good Indian and sub-continental restaurants, and has done for a while. That fine Mayfair establishment Gymkhana recently attained two Michelin stars, and many others have established themselves in the premier rank of the capital’s dining, and this entire renaissance has taken place in a relatively short period of time. We are, thankfully, a very long way away from the overpriced and underpowered curry houses of yore. Yet even revolution needs evolution, and Tamarind is a very good case in point.
When it initially opened in Mayfair’s Queen Street three decades ago, it offered something very different and exciting, awakening the palettes of jaded diners with a daring and brilliant mixture of flavours. A Michelin star duly founded in 2001, the fitting reward for a place of this brilliance and the first Indian restaurant in London to receive such an accolade.
And change has taken place, most recently with the addition of an all-weather terrace, the first solo project by designer Stephanie Barba Mendoza, that is simultaneously balmy in summer and cosy in autumn and winter; a recognition that even superlative food needs to be given its fitting home. This seemed a good enough reason to give Larry a shout and cajole the dear man into accompanying me on a treat; not that Larry needs much encouragement if there’s a sub-continental feast involved.
We turned up bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and the first thing that we were pleased to find was that the cocktail menu has come to the fore like never before, courtesy of mixologist Carole Brown, in association with Boatyard Distillery.
Kick off with a ghee-soaked Old Fashioned -my call – or a very fine tequila-infused Tamarind Cup – Larry’s delight – and then follow it up with a Goan Sour, a superlative gin-based delight that is both refreshing and sets one up for whatever one chooses to eat, whether it’s the excellent value set lunch (3 courses for £35, which, in Mayfair, constitutes the bargain to end all bargains), the a la carte menu, or, for the more adventurous, one of the superbly paced and delectable tasting menus.
We opt for the latter, but with variations on a theme. After all, nobody wants to be predictable. The a la carte is too overwhelming to contemplate, and instead we’re offered, and opt for, a selection of dishes that have defined the restaurant over the previous three decades. The Rajasthani churi chaat and the (surprisingly spicy) tandoori sweet potato are fine curtain raisers, accompanying the second of our cocktails, and before we know it, it’s time to sample the delights of the grill menu, as the atypically sunny autumn weather allows the terrace roof to be retracted a tad.
We’re offered coconut and chilli seabass, Malai chicken tikka and, almost outrageously, a fine lamb kakori, a finely spiced wonder that takes the curry-house shish kebab of cliché and does marvellous things with it. As Larry and I take a glass of (Matthew Jukes-curated) Garnacha Blanca, which cuts through the spice admirably, it is hard not to concur with his gleeful remark ‘ah, this is the life, old chum.’
It would be even more of the life with the mains, the mangalore prawn curry and a very fine dal to accompany it. Larry and I fall upon these, accompanied by a superb glass of Nero d’Avola. The naan breads are so good that we devour ours in a trice, and need a reinforcement to soak up the wonderful sauce, but this is all high-end, exemplary cooking.
We’re nearly replete by now, but desserts of chocolate and hazelnut praline bar and basque cheesecake – neither especially Indian options, but never mind – make for a wholly suitable end to a fine meal. It would be wrong not to take an espresso martini made with a suitably Tamarindian twist, and so we end the meal on a high, walking out into a sunny Mayfair afternoon blinking and replete.
So, all hail Tamarind, the mighty conqueror (or is that Tamburlaine?) extolling its glories to a part of town that could, once again, do with a restaurant as sophisticated and polished as this. Time will tell whether Michelin once again bestows its starry favours – which, on this evidence, it should – but, until then, this hugely successful and slick operation will do very nicely for the rest of us. Another thirty years at the top seems an inevitability.
Tamarind, 20 Queen Street, London W1J 5PR. Lunch menus include two courses for £29pp or three for £34pp. For more information, including details about the terrace, and for bookings, please visit www.tamarindrestaurant.com.
