There’s something comforting about coming back to a familiar spot, whether to be reassured that all is as it should be or, in the case of a recent luncheon at Kahani, that there is something new in the offing that might just surprise and delight.
I remember well the first time I descended the stairs into the expansive basement that makes up the restaurant, its entrance untainted by ostentation, even overshadowed by its neighbour Cadogan Hall, down what feels like a quiet red brick residential Chelsea street. An unlikely spot one might choose to showcase some fine Indian cuisine, but as Kahani persists while others come and go, it’s testament to its legacy – and the talents of the Michelin-daubed Peter Joseph – that one doesn’t have to shout about one’s wares. Word of mouth and reputation count for a lot in the London restaurant scene.
Amid the riot of new openings and ‘latest things’ that seem to endure in the capital, there is a good reason Larman and I decide upon Kahani for lunch, one late summer Friday. A new menu has just been announced. And, knowing its consistency for reliable, enjoyable fare, this was cause for a return.
Smoke seems to be the obligatory MO for cocktails lately, and the barkeep at Kahani has got in on the act with the SW1; cardamom-infused Patron, with apple, is poured from a decanter with a cascade of woodsmoke. It adds a touch of theatre but once I waft past the plumes, the cocktail beneath fares far better. Larman gives me something of a smug look as he nonchalantly sips his gin and pineapple concoction, “There’s no need for the theatrics, old chap…”
The bottomless brunch we dive into features five courses of highlights through the new offering; a substantial chickpea chaat could act as a side for the whole event, but a highlight is the beetroot ‘chop’; a breaded fritter in a mustard kadi sauce that’s simply not big enough to satisfy our enthusiasm for it. I could have had that as a main. The interim, however, steals the show; nothing more than a simple keema naan, with tamarind chutney, but it is exceptional. For something so ubiquitous on any Indian menu up and down the land, I challenge anyone to find one better than in this basement in Chelsea.
The next course, from the grill, pushes the boat out in terms of what one considers grilling. We can’t fault the chicken – again, just enough to keep us wanting more – but it’s the grilled broccoli that steals the show. As the mains arrive, we are near replete, but the panoply of dishes in front of us requires some attention.
Chicken ‘kali mirch’, namely simmered with browned onion, tomato, black pepper and coriander, provides the basis for a new take on a chicken curry, boundless in thick, rich gravy; while paneer – hitherto never ordered by this scribe – served as tikka with peppers, kashmiri chilli and royal cumin is the surprise hit; both mains surrounded by a split pea taka dal, jeera rice and roti, namely ‘all the trimmings’, as Jonathan Meades might say, though in this instance they are more than welcome.
All this and we feel we’ve barely scratched the surface of the new menu. Scallops with Andhra spices, coconut and fresh turmeric; soft-shell crab with kachumber and yellow tomato chutney; tandoori peshawari lamb chops; guineafowl fillets with golden beets, nutmeg and ginger, not to mention Gulab jamun cheesecake with lemon curd, mango and basil sorbet. Reader, indecision will outgun indigestion when you come. For us, however, all will have to wait until the next visit.
To conclude, there are the obligatory espresso martinis to be had, reassuringly consistent to my learned friend, but at the last minute, I spy an addition to the cocktail menu. A lone offering, designed to accompany dessert, The Story. A tandoor hazelnut-infused vodka, with coffee liqueur and cinnamon, it’s at once sweet and spicy, working splendidly with the carrot gajar halwa one can always make room for.
Only later am I reminded that Kahani means ‘story’ in Urdu. And, once again, we have a story to tell from our visit. And what a story it is, we shall be dining out on this one for a while yet.
Kahani, 1 Wilbraham Place, London SW1X 9AE. For more information, including details of all the menus, from Jazz Night to pre-theatre to Bottomless Brunch, and for bookings, please visit www.kahanilondon.com.
