Located in London’s Queensway, Ceru captures the essence of Eastern Mediterranean cuisine. Umesh Patel discovers how its small plates menu features a vibrant fusion of ingredients inspired by the founders’ passion for travel and exploration of new flavours in the Levant region – and there’s an offer for readers, to boot…
It’s not every day that the opportunity to write a feature lands in your lap, especially while you’re soaking up the sun by the hotel pool on the Athenian Riviera. One moment, I’m basking in a glorious heatwave, breathing in the salty Aegean air mingled with the heady scent of sunscreen, chatting idly with a charming couple from London. The next, I’m dining at their Eastern Mediterranean gem beneath the decidedly overcast skies of Queensway.
Stepping through the doors of Ceru feels like a momentary escape to the Mediterranean shores, thanks to the restaurant’s rustic décor and vibrant yellow and cerulean hues from which it gets its name. The ambiance provides a much-needed balm for my holiday blues; it’s been less than 24 hours since I left Greece, and I’m already yearning for the warmth of its sandy beaches. The chance to meet Patricia and Barry at their restaurant in West London to uncover their culinary journey was simply too tempting to refuse.
Once inside, I’m eager to discover the inspiration behind Ceru. What better way than to enjoy a meticulously crafted selection of Patricia’s favourite small plates, perfect for sharing in true meze style? We begin our evening with a trio of dips: a fiery houmous, Fadi — an intriguing blend of zucchini, yoghurt, lemon and tahini — and Hamara, a vibrant mix of red pepper, pomegranates and walnuts.
As we savour these delights, Patricia and Barry share tales of their travels. Their journeys, particularly through the Levant, have ignited a deep passion for discovering new and exotic flavours and is evident in the dishes they present.
Consider their merguez, for example. It’s a symphony of spices—paprika, cumin, fennel, coriander, cayenne, cinnamon and pepper—coming together to create an intoxicating seasoning that permeates several of the dishes. Meanwhile, ingredients like chickpeas, tahini, feta, aubergine, peppers, olives and pomegranates—staples of the Levantine kitchen—feature prominently on their menu. This makes many of Ceru’s dishes ideal for vegetarians and vegans, though the menu caters to all tastes.
Rather than confining their cuisine to a single tradition, Patricia and Barry enhance regional dishes by blending diverse ingredients, embracing a more fluid and creative approach. It’s a culinary adventure that mirrors their own travels, with each dish serving as a vibrant snapshot from the Levant.
I glance at the drinks menu, which features wines from Lebanon, North Macedonia and Turkey, to name just a few. The challenge lies in choosing from a list of unfamiliar wines — fortunately, I’m encouraged to sample several, transforming the meal into an impromptu Dionysian-style wine tasting and providing a wonderful excuse to explore new regions.
I eventually settle on the Voskehat ArmAS (2021) from Armenia, often hailed as the birthplace of wine. It offers hints of citrus, apple and pear, with a clean finish and, to my delight, is utterly delicious. This wine pairs exquisitely with our selection of salads: artichoke, green peas and baby onions with preserved lemon, ginger and turmeric; alongside shaved fennel, pear and orange adorned with toasted almonds, dried cranberries and fresh herbs.
The Voskehat also pairs superbly with the seafood selection. First up are the seared Atlantic scallops, their delicate sweetness beautifully offset by a zesty citrus juniper dressing and the satisfying crunch of garlic samphire. The braised octopus follows, and oh my, it does not disappoint; its rich, meaty texture is paired elegantly with a velvety celeriac purée and a citrus harissa glaze that delivers a delightful kick—I only wish there were more of the delicious tentacles to devour. Still, there is the Karides—sautéed king prawns—perfectly seasoned in a spicy tomato sauce, enriched with dill and fenugreek, offering a memorable end to the seafood course.
Patricia takes the opportunity to tell me about the décor, which, like the food, bears the distinctive imprint of their travels as well as her keen eye for design. The bathroom is a marvel—wooden carvings and doors salvaged from old Moroccan houses exude rustic charm, while intricately handmade tiles from Fez add an air of exotic elegance. And while you’re there, take a moment to admire the flush of the Thomas Crapper cast-metal cistern; it’s a whimsical reminder that even the smallest details at Ceru are thoughtfully considered to enhance its unique charm.
We next turn our attention to the meat dishes, beginning with a fillet of beef, grilled to a perfect medium rare and served with crushed hazelnuts and a spicy zhug dressing. This hot sauce, similar to chimichurri, combines coriander, parsley, chillies and toasted spices and incidentally works beautifully as a marinade—you can thank me later! Next is the signature lamb shoulder.
This tender lamb, slow-roasted for five hours in a secret blend of twelve shawarma spices, is finished with a pomegranate sauce, fresh mint and pistachio, enhancing the rich, aromatic flavours of the region. The dishes are complimented with side servings of grilled asparagus spears and spiced polenta and feta fries. We paired this course with a full-bodied Levantina from the Dalton estate in Israel.
We end the evening as we began—with a delightful trio. The Dark Chocolate and Tahini Mousse stands out with its nutty depth, adding a surprising richness to the indulgent chocolate. Accompanying it is the cardamom-infused Baklava Ice Cream, topped with nut brittle and burnt honey caramel, which captures the essence of Eastern Mediterranean sweets. Completing the experience is Messing with Eton, a playful twist on the classic dessert: meringue paired with fresh strawberries, crème fraîche and spiced fig purée, offering a refreshing and satisfying conclusion to our meal.
You can taste Patricia and Barry’s love for travel and exploration in every bite of their Levantine menu – it’s a celebration of small plates brimming with bold and vibrant flavours. Each dish whisks you away to distant shores, leaving you with a lingering sense of wanderlust. For now, my holiday blues have been appeased.
Ceru, 11-13 Queensway, London W2 4QJ. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.cerurestaurants.com. Ceru Queensway is offering Arbuturian readers a complimentary aperitif with dinner. Simply make your booking and show the team the article on your phone on arrival…
