All restaurants have their cross to bear and Clos Maggiore’s is the title of ‘Most Romantic Restaurant in London’, partly thanks to their much-in-demand conservatory dining area adorned with faux white blossom and fairy lights. But despite being largely patronised by couples celebrating birthdays or anniversaries, it’s also not unusual to see business men lunching or a group of off-duty food critics enjoying a gourmet night out, for Marcellin Marc’s food certainly deserves more attention than the décor, however attractive this may be.
Let’s face it, Covent Garden isn’t renowned for its food offering and despite a recent wave of new brasserie-style restaurants such as Cafe Murano and the Ivy Market Grill opening, it’s extremely difficult to find a fine dining experience to rival Mayfair counterparts. Aside from J. Sheekey, however, Clos Maggiore is my go-to restaurant in terms of exemplary cuisine and consistency, with Clos offering an extremely good value pre-theatre 3 course set menu including half a bottle of wine per person at an outstanding £34.50 Monday-Thursday and from 5pm-10pm on Sundays.
This restaurant has probably witnessed more men proposing to their girlfriends than any other venue in London, but whilst no doubt being extremely flattered that their diners choose to celebrate their major milestones with them, Clos Maggiore is a whole lot more than a one-stop-shop for special occasions or a quick bite before the theatre; just going there is a special occasion and should be enjoyed at leisure, and in light of the density of the wine list, preferably when you don’t have to get up for work the next day.
Whilst the food takes inspiration from the spectacular ingredients indigenous to both Provence and Tuscany, the wine cellar features over 2,500 labels. Having once boasted the sommelier from Le Gavroche, it’s clear that they take their wine extremely seriously here, but like all good establishments, the sommelier is keen to find the right wine for your meal regardless of budget and will make you feel like you’ve spent a lot more than you have. The full bodied 2012 Valpolicella Ripasso, chosen to compliment our main of wagyu beef, whilst coming in at a reasonable £27, combined the perfect notes of smoke and dark plummy fruits to make the main course really sing.
Having been awarded three AA rossettes since 2008, why a Michelin star has alluded Clos Maggiore Lord only knows, although it doesn’t seem to have affected their popularity, and if they did have one it would be even harder to get a table. Making our selection from the a la carte menu, we both sampled the ambitious starter of a freshly made tortellini filled with delicate scallop, meaty Maine lobster and king prawn. Combined with a balanced amount of dill, this was poached in a light and creamy langoustine bisque which had a distinct aniseed flavour (Pernod perhaps), topped with a deliciously sweet roasted langoustine and served with wilted gem lettuce, with just enough crispness remaining to offer a nice balance of textures. A heavenly and confident opening.
But it was the oven roasted and herb smoked wagyu beef for two that proved the real show-stopper of the evening. Having been initially presented to us in a smoking tagine, filling the room with tempting aromas (and perhaps making other diners fear the restaurant was on fire) it was whisked away to be sliced, leaving us both to salivate. When the prized beef reappeared it revealed not only the distinct marbling of wagyu, but that it had been cooked to a perfect medium-rare and was accompanied by the best hand cut duck fat chips in London (my own award for Clos). Other additions included tenderstem broccoli and a pot of Bernaise sauce, which although delicious, was almost unnecessary due to the intense smear of mushroom purée on the plate and the beef having been doused in its own magnificent cooking juices, making it a ‘try it before you die’ dish.
As is the French habit, we took cheese before dessert, having chosen from a selection highlighting the best and most renowned varieties in Europe including Roquefort, Stinking Bishop and Saint-Nectaire, all of which were enhanced with a glass of port and an intensely flavoured home-made quince jelly. Thankfully, desserts here tend to be light and refreshing and even our rich Gianduja chocolate and raspberry cream, with discs of milk chocolate cake and fresh raspberries in Tonka Bean syrup, was surprisingly effortless to eat, I’m rather ashamed to report. The restaurant for lovers? I think that should be food-lovers. For my wife and I agree that there is no love sincerer than the love of food.
Clos Maggiore, 33 King St, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8JD. For more information, reservations and menus please visit the website.
