I’ve long been a fan of Greenwich. It’s one of those London neighbourhoods that has its own character, it doesn’t feel like London at all. In many ways it’s like stepping back in time, to its royal and naval past; the college, the park, the ambiance of its market. If I was ever showing overseas friends round London I would always bring them here, to wander the cobbled streets and take in the view from the Royal Observatory.
When it comes to eateries, much like my own reasons for visiting, it feels as though it’s principally geared to tourism. It has its fair share of chains and stand-alones – and plenty of pubs, from spit-and-sawdust types to charming locals. But new on the scene, just three months in, is Highroad Social, set back from the bustle of competing tourist traps in the centre, and it offers something a little more…well, relaxed.
Not to be deceived by it being tacked onto the Picture House, its modern yellow brick exterior may contrast with the more classical facades of its historic neighbours nearby, but there’s an inviting, unfussy feel as you step inside. Large-fern foliage breaks up the lines, there’s plenty of polished wood and flashes of colour, and a mezzanine gallery makes for a cosy hideaway. What’s more, you’re met with a table displaying its freshly baked wares, which makes for a convenient coffee stop, if that’s your intent.
But there’s far more to being social than coffee and cake. The ‘all day dining’ menu features an assortment blending meals; ‘Classics’ of Eggs Benedict and English Breakfast sit alongside a Social burger, and a section for pastries and fancies, suggesting it’s equally a spot for brunch, and a set lunch menu gives the benefit of deciding for you if time or budget is a factor.
It comes into its own, however, at dinner with a sharing menu suggesting it’s social by name, social by nature. A few things caught my eye, some reassuring familiar; a bavette with chimichurri, scallops with garlic butter and charred spatchcock, but others making things rather more interesting; Hereford beef on toast, potato, leek and Keens pie, baked hispi, and devilled seafood. A tapas-esque medley it may be – and one in which you can’t define the cuisine – but it is at once enticing, intriguing, comforting.
Over a punchy 58 & Co dirty vodka martini, I change my mind over olives and sourdough as I spy anchovies with shallots, with the option to order the ‘tin’. As nibbles go, on paper it sounds extreme, but with an aperitif it’s the perfect mix of salt and umami. 
As you’d expect, the plates come out in stages and that melange of styles on paper becomes something altogether different when they’re in front of you. Mrs L and I were switching and swapping dishes across the table; a mouthful of pie here, a slice of charcuterie there; it had become our own private buffet. As each dish arrived, we’d almost forgotten we’d ordered it, and there was a moment of glee when the bavette steak was put down.
The wine list, like the menu, features a clever eclecticism. Few are old school, these are wines from disruptors with names like ‘I Wish I Was a Ninja’ and ‘Free Run Juice’, and that’s the intention, owner-manager David O’Brien tells me. And it’s principally about organic and biodynamic wines (‘After all, who wants a hangover?’ David assures me), and a decent selection of orange wines. Ours, to match the steak, was a saperavi from Georgia, “Good choice,” our waiter advised, “after all, it was the cradle of wine production.” This team knows its stuff.
Mrs L and I sat, sipped and supped. Time elapsed. At one point, she looked at me, smiled and nodded. With our little nest of vipers parked with grandparents, we eased into the afternoon. Soft Parisian jazz played in the background. We were in our own corner of heaven. Before we knew it, the sky had bruised and it was time to decamp. A sunset stroll along the river beckoned, and back into the throng with a pint at The Trafalgar.
It’s not all perfect; the supplement for cheese over dessert seemed a little much for a single wedge of Keens cheddar, but that is to nitpick. Highroad Social is just what you need in a local; a neighbourhood eatery that’s as inviting as it is familiar. Oh, and they’re dog friendly, too. It doesn’t get more social than that, does it?
Highroad Social, 178 Greenwich High Road, Greenwich, London SE10 8NN. The set lunch menu (with two courses for £19 or three for £22) is available from Wednesday-Saturday from midday until 6pm. For more information, including opening hours and menus, and for bookings, please visit www.highroadsocial.com.
