“We don’t have much time, old chap. I’ve got a business call at 3. I wasn’t supposed to be talking to anyone today, but the bastards slid one in without asking me. I’m so terribly sorry.” Say what you like about Larry – and people do, alas – but he’s nothing if not upfront about his busy schedule. Usually I take pleasure in humouring the dear chap, but today, we’ve returned to Macellaio, in its Shaftesbury Avenue incarnation, and I’m in an expansive lunch-on-a-Tuesday mood, up for savouring a fine repast at leisure.
Whereas he has to tear himself away from the pleasures of the table and do all manner of difficult, complex things, by which he makes his non-Arbuturian living. So lunch is charged with an unusual sense of urgency, which adds a certain thrill to proceedings.
We love Macellaio. If you haven’t been to one of their four outposts around London (including Exmouth Market and South Kensington) then you’re missing out. Larry and I had one of our most dramatic evenings ever at the late, lamented Battersea branch, where we were prevailed upon to sample ‘ox courage’, namely bull’s testicles. Once was enough on that particular score, although it remains one of my more memorable culinary experiences. So it was with hopes to the rafters that we visited their flagship, bang in the heart of Theatreland.
It’s certainly a dramatic experience. Excellent cocktails – Old Fashioned for me, negroni for Larry – kick things off, and then we take advice as to the menu highlights. As a restaurant that specialises in beef and steak, we’re advised to try the carpaccio to start, and we do, but it comes in an unorthodox form, on a yeast-free pizza; their latest innovation is to offer lighter dishes to lure in the pre-theatre crowd, and thereby compete with the tasteless likes of Bella Pasta.
A fine idea but we weren’t entirely convinced that the superb carpaccio is best served presented on Italian flatbread; a burrata and crudo starter works far better. As does a rather innovative offering of a lit ‘candle’ of their beef fat with which to dip our bread; in this case, the culinary game is very much, ahem, worth the candle.
Larry and I were looking at one another with, if not fear, faint surprise at this point. “It’s a bit like seeing your favourite band when they start with new material,” I said, and he nodded sagely. So it was just as well that the full stadium-filler was saved for the mains.
The sharing-size plate of ‘Revolver’ ribeye, taken off the bone and served with bone marrow, was sensationally, stunningly wonderful, being the best cut of meat I’ve tried in aeons, and given depth and flavour by a trio of fine sides, a cherry tomato salad, the ’chips’, ie thin-cut potatoes with truffle and parmesan, and carrots roasted in bone marrow.
The whole wonderful thing was served with one of the best bottles of Nero d’Avola I’ve tried in ages, a Rossa di Contrada from Marabino, and our excellent waitress, who recommended the whole shebang, was as pleased as we were by our audible gasps and gulps of appreciation.
Dessert was old-school and superb; tiramisu for me, a Fior di Latte ice cream for Larry, prepared tableside with olive oil and sea salt – another innovative turn – and it would be rude not to take a couple of espresso martinis to send us out into the afternoon, blinking and replete. “That,” my dear chum said, before the world of work claimed him again, ‘was sensational”.
I cannot disagree, readers.
Macellaio RC, 39-45 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1D 6LA. For more information, including details of the new Sunday Roast (available at all 3 sites) or new Pizza Menu (Avail at Soho and Exmouth Market), as well as details of butchery and other masterclasses, and for bookings, please visit www.macellaiorc.com.
