King’s Cross has become something of a minor culinary hotspot following the regeneration of St Pancras Station and the opening of Marcus Wareing’s The Gilbert Scott and Bruno Loubet’s Grain Store. Meanwhile, another former Gordon Ramsay protégé, Mark Sargeant, who headed up Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s for 7 years before opening his own venture, Rocksalt in Folkstone, has returned to London and is now in charge of the main dining space at The Great Northern Hotel.
Idiosyncratically named Plum + Spilt Milk (after the colours of the livery of old LNWR trains’ dining cars), both the décor and menu turns its back on the classically French dining experience Sargeant spent so many years of his life creating within the Ramsay empire, and provides all the whimsicality the title leads one to expect; classic British dishes such as devilled lamb’s kidneys on toast, fish pie with braised peas, and pork chops with glazed apple – it’s just the sort of food you’re likely to yearn for when you’ve just returned home, exhausted from travelling and are in need of some nurturing.
Having experienced Sargeant’s exemplary food at Claridge’s on several occasions, Plum + Spilt Milk is like a breath of fresh air, here is a chef actually enjoying what he’s doing, and under his own steam. Whilst there is an Express menu available, it’s a compliment to say that the style of this restaurant doesn’t lend itself to those requiring a quick meal, rather the luxurious ingredients of the a la carte and comfortable banquette seating encourages diners to visit when returning to King’s Cross as opposed to hurrying to catch a train, with the leisure time to enjoy the experience to the full.
Fortunately, we were returning from a weekend in York and weren’t in any hurry, whilst the heavy rain and the first wearing of my winter coat only increased my urge for some cheering comfort food. My chap didn’t take much persuading to share both the dressed crab and prawn cocktail to begin, nor the beef Wellington for two – accompanied by lashings of rich gravy, cabbage, glazed carrots and the naughtiest-looking beef dripping chips I’ve ever seen.
Whilst seemingly simple, I’ve cut into more than my fair share of Wellingtons to find a dehydrated mushroom duxelle and an overcooked fillet sitting on a soggy pastry base – a baffling combination which always proves a huge disappointment. This example, however, was perfection; the beef succulent, rare, and encased in a perfectly golden and crispy crust which, when doused in the accompanying gravy, intensified its meatiness and would have satisfied the most carnivorous of Wellington’s soldiers.
Sharing seemed to be the order of the day and it wasn’t surprising that we couldn’t manage a dessert each after such a feast. The iced peanut and salted caramel mousse proved a Snickers-tastic homage; rich, highly addictive and summing up Plum + Spilt Milk’s evocative take on well known and well loved flavours. Familiarity can often be a high risk strategy for a restaurant – diner’s being highly protective over their favourite dishes – but whilst the elegant décor initially appears over stylised and worryingly trendy (with exposed filament light bulb ceiling pendants), everything shouts quality, as does the food, which proved skilfully prepared, generous and timeless.
This is supported by a strong front of house team, who each deliver personality whilst remaining efficient throughout, and the lively ambiance and carefree chatter heard in the restaurant conveys the fact that they have succeeded in making their diners extremely happy. From leisurely brunches to opulent Sunday roasts, far from being an experience restricted to travellers, Plum + Spilt Milk is a destination itself. Failing that, you may just miss your train.
Plum + Spilt Milk at The Great Northern Hotel, King’s Cross Station, London. For more information and reservations visit the website.
