The Dorchester’s iconic Grill reopened last month having undergone a multi-million pound makeover by Parisian architect Bruno Moinard, casting aside its former clubby tartan image in favour of a sparkling mirrored interior with accents of butterscotch coloured leather and glass, and perhaps reflecting the tastes of the hotel’s owner, the Sultan of Brunei. It is one of the most talked about transformations of recent years and sees Alain Ducasse’s protégé, Christophe Marleix, transfer from the Dorchester’s sister hotel Plaza Athénée in Paris, to take the helm of a kitchen still happily focussed on showcasing classic French cuisine, simply prepared and impeccably executed.
Only the third renovation in the Grill’s 84-year history and Moinard’s first UK restaurant project, your eyes are immediately drawn to the elaborate hand-blown Murano glass chandelier and, along with a slick new cocktail bar (try a Bloody Mary with blue cheese vodka), the chef’s pass is now a prominent feature of the restaurant, framed dramatically with a backdrop of glistening copper jelly moulds and pots, inviting curious diners to observe Marleix as he calmly approves dishes with a serious nod before they are whisked off by the efficient front of house army – already a team in full swing after having only been serving customers for a few weeks.
Despite the visual changes, the Grill remains a temple to its heritage and the most relished ingredients and flavour pairings in the world; from the signature dish of lobster chowder to caramelised sweet scallops partnered with a woody truffle vinaigrette, salad leaves and parmesan shavings, to an obscenely decadent truffle risotto generously concealed beneath a veil of black truffle shavings – the rice perfectly creamy and al dente. Our shared main consisted of pan-roasted Dover sole, golden from countless butter-bastings and filleted by the waiter table-side. This was accompanied by a delightfully zesty Meuniere sauce, green beans and a macaroni gratin. The sommelier selected the extremely fine Mount Difficulty New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – its vibrant citrus and gooseberry notes complimenting the buttery caper sauce.
Whilst my chap’s baked cheesecake, paired with an eye-watering citrus marmalade, took a dessert I’d previously scorned to new heights, an undoubted highlight of the new menu is Pastry Chef Ludovic Cuny’s collection of sweet soufflés, prepared to order and featuring five intoxicating flavours; 75% cocoa chocolate, ‘reserva’ rum served with raisin ice cream, Tahitian vanilla, grapefruit, and finally the one I selected – Sicilian pistachio filled with salted caramel and served with a salted caramel ice cream. As you’d expect from a pastry chef who has worked alongside Alain Ducasse, it was immaculate – the rush of anticipation one gets from the arrival of such a dessert is surpassed only by the excitement of diving in and discovering liquid caramel – a new technique which offers the diner sudden unexpected bursts of flavour.
One notable food critic recently lambasted the Grill for, among other things, the restaurant’s high prices, as if such an observation would come as a great bombshell to his readers. Since opening in 1931 with the sole aim of being the most luxurious hotel in the world, patronised by British, European and Hollywood royalty – The Dorchester continues to uphold these founding principles. If not royalty, then Middle Eastern tycoons who now call The Dorchester a second-home when visiting the capital hardly need to check menu prices before ordering. When you discover that the kitchen team are putting out nigh-on flawless dishes, you realise that it’s rather like sniping at Bentley for not being more affordable.
In the midst of the capital’s French high-end brasserie revival (Koffmann’s, Brasserie Chavot, Boulestin) the Grill is a restaurant in the true sense of the word – even if they do allow you to order French fries. A decidedly formal affair, if you don’t happen to be the aforementioned royalty, you’d go there for a blow out when you get lucky on Derby Day, to enjoy some very fine food, and to pretend you’re James Bond (or his date) for the evening. It’s pure and unashamed fantasy-land and that’s the way it should be. If we were back in the 1980s and still power-dressing, this is where you would take an important client for a good lunch before getting him to sign on the dotted line. It’s a brave update for one of the capital’s best loved dining experiences and the food alone demands respect.
The Grill at The Dorchester, 53 Park Lane, London. For more information and reservations visit the website.
