It’s funny to think that not three years ago Portugal was suffering more than most in the wake of the financial crisis. A €78 billion IMF bailout seemed to cap the dismal fortunes of a forgotten country somewhere on the edge of Spain. It’s to its credit – pardon the pun – that, in less than a year, the tables were turning with its growth outstripping even that of the German powerhouse, so much so that the Financial Times last year dubbed it “the surprise hero of the Eurozone recovery”. And the reason for this dramatic u-turn? Exports. From shoes to cars to uncoated paper, Portugals exports have turned around their fortunes.
And added to that export success story is one of the largest, most ambitious, most comprehensive culinary drives to land on Blighty’s shores. And I’m not just talking about a wave of sardines. Taste Portugal hits London this September and runs – wait for it – until March 2015. What?! Yes, ma’am. A food festival this most certainly is not. Food ‘festival’? It’s safe to say that Portugal is invading the capital’s restaurant scene.
Spearheaded by the flag bearer of Portuguese cuisine, Luis Baena, from the Notting Hill Kitchen, London’s Michelin-starred maestros are turning positively custard tarts over the idea. Kicking off, from October 13th, The Ledbury is offering a degustation menu with ‘harmonised’ wine, with similar offerings courtesy of Angela Hartnett at Murano, Agnar Sverrisson at Texture and Eric Chavot at Mayfair’s Brasserie Chavot. Chefs Jose Avillez and Nuno Mendes will be running a street food safari at the beginning of December and a masterclass by Ricardo Costa at the Cordon Bleu Academy in February next year. And those are just the highlights.
And then there is the wine. Oh, the wine. At the launch of the event at Baena’s Notting Hill Kitchen, the Portuguese Ambassador, during his speech, pulled from his jacket pocket a withered, folded sheet of A4 and waved it at the assembled crowd. It denoted a graph showing the ratings of Portuguese wines on the world scene taken in December 2013. There’s little wonder that he has kept this in his pocket not just as a discreet badge of honour but as symbol of his pride – Portugal came out on top. It goes without saying that Taste Portugal features a dazzling array of events, tastings and masterclasses showcasing the delights of the Duoro and the passion for Port.
So if you thought Portuguese cuisine was all about custard tarts and cataplana, you might just find yourself surprised by what’s in store in London from October 13th…
For a full list of events during the Taste Portugal season, including dates, venues, details of menus, tastings and masterclasses, visit the website.
