Sicily Unpacked at Refettorio
Refettorio, 19 New Bridge Street, London, EC4V 6DB. Tel. 020 7438 8052.
Browsing: The Foodie
The Brasserie at the London Mal
My mood could have been better. It was raining when I arrived at Malmaison in…
The Jackson Wines
In celebration of the Dorchester’s 80th birthday this year, Barbara Banke, from Jackson Family Wines, hosted a dinner in happy marriage with the launch of her new-to-market Vérité La Joie 2008.
Worship Street Whistling Shop
“If you haven’t yet experienced the Worship Street Whistling Shop, you should. And no, it’s not actually a shop, and you don’t need to be good at whistling. But you do need to like gin, which is where I come in.”
Tsuru
“I found Tsuru in its metallic City cave. A steady flow of suited zombies entered and ordered, their lunch neatly boxed in sushi selections and Bentos. We began where all good meals should: with green tea and a Scotch egg.”
The Brompton Bar & Grill
Coalescing into a trend at the V&A end of Old Brompton Road is the French brasserie-cum-bistro. There are three notable examples: Henry Harris’ excellent Racine, Marlon Abela’s Cassis and, last but certainly not least, the Brompton Bar & Grill.
JW Steakhouse
“You must have the cheesecake, it’s the house speciality,” said Chi Chi. Cheesecake? Not a light sorbet, not a fresh fruit salad, not even a delicate mousse – no, cheesecake, on top of steak. Was this a cruel joke?
Café Bohème
“The tables are dark wood and the banquettes are deep red leather. The zinc bar shines in the warm, carefully conceived light, and there’s a sense we could be in one of those Bonnieux bars in the late 1980s.”
Something’s Flesh
There was one event in my youth that left me enthralled by the genus Lepus; one cold autumn night that remains clear in the memory, scented with the sharp musk of braising hare.
La Pergola, Rome
La Pergola, the only three Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome, and one of a mere eight in all of Italy, has a substantial reputation to live up to. Alex Larman and the Holy Roman Empress went to test the water…
Kajitsu, New York
Kajitsu, the name of the discreet subterranean Japanese restaurant in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, means ‘a fine day’, something you can be assured of should your diurnal cycle conclude within its enlightening confines…
Lost in Translation
When grasshoppers, fish heads and raw tentacles prove too much for the stomach, there’s only one way to turn: whisky. Jihane Miller introduces three whiskies for when you don’t know your chicken feet from your chow mein.