Coalescing into a trend at the V&A end of Old Brompton Road is the French brasserie-cum-bistro. There are three notable examples: Henry Harris’ excellent Racine, Marlon Abela’s Cassis and, last but certainly not least, the Brompton Bar & Grill.
“You must have the cheesecake, it’s the house speciality,” said Chi Chi. Cheesecake? Not a light sorbet, not a fresh fruit salad, not even a delicate mousse – no, cheesecake, on top of steak. Was this a cruel joke?
“The tables are dark wood and the banquettes are deep red leather. The zinc bar shines in the warm, carefully conceived light, and there’s a sense we could be in one of those Bonnieux bars in the late 1980s.”
“I was here for one purpose: grouse. I wasn’t exactly going to get the first bird from the Glorious Twelfth season, but no matter; I was told if you want grouse in London, The Grill at the Dorchester was the place to go.”
As a resident of the trendy plains of Shoreditch, I tend not to venture further…
The number 36, in association with the ‘Solar Square’ of ancient Western tradition, stands for ‘sun’ and ‘warmth’. As of September, it’s also the name of Nigel Mendham’s new restaurant at Dukes Hotel.
Vivid photographs of spices, stained glass and wooden lanterns, emerald green, red and sand cushions, double-handled wok bathroom sinks. If there was a ‘best decorated Indian restaurant’ accolade, Potli would surely scoop it.
With mounting glee, I made my way to Powder Keg Diplomacy, a name just pretentious enough to pique the interest of city workers with an inexorable need to throw their ill-gotten gains on quality dining not involving burgers.
When Jonesy drops one an email, one tends to sit up and take notice. More often than not, they offer tidings of comfort and joy. However, this one was laconic: “Larman, old chap. Cookery class at Le Pont de la Tour.”
Are gastropubs what they were? Does the concept still have a place at the forefront of our culinary landscape? Noah May chews over the questions and chomps on braised rabbit leg in the cosy elegance of The Garrison Public House.
The love affair the British have with sushi peddles on. It occupies both extremes: those…