Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year as Cyprus’s first luxury hotel, Margaret May dips into the delights of the Annabelle Hotel in Paphos…
I’ve arrived at The Annabelle Hotel in Paphos, or Pafos as it is known locally. A brass plaque outside the entrance informs me that the hotel was opened in 1985 by Viscount Tonypandy – probably better remembered as George Thomas, Speaker of the House of Commons. It’s a beautifully designed building with a distinct colonial feel. Gleaming marble floors, stone pillars, enormous earthenware and terra cotta pots. In the centre of the lobby a shining grand piano sits silently waiting. Deep, inviting sofas and armchairs fill the lounge without detracting from the sense of capaciousness. Looking upwards a beautifully curved minstrels gallery runs the length of the first floor. Signs to the various suites, conference rooms and bars reflect the Greek heritage that has left its mark here – Andromeda, Aphrodite, Adonis, Apollo, Ariadne – the very names are enticing and fill me with a thirst for further knowledge of the history here.
George on reception politely explains that they have extra guests. Would I mind upgrading to one of their cottages in the grounds rather than a room within the hotel? He shows me around one such – it is delightful, and beautifully set amongst the gardens, pools, and waterfalls that cascade over enormous rocks. All is immaculately kept and surrounded by a virtual cornucopia of colourful, and some tropical, plants. Their scents waft across the gardens and I can hear the gentle lapping of waves onto the beach some 25 yards away. I could not possibly dispute this arrangement – I seem to have arrived into some sort of Utopian paradise. These cottages are charming, cosy and comfortable and with more than a sense of the romantic about them. Outside, personal jacuzzis lie nestled amongst the greenery and bougainvillea. One can just envisage an evening soak here with candles, wine, and the soothing sound of rippling waters nearby. Champagne on ice and a basket of fruit await inside.
This is an oasis of calm and tranquility set against the gaping vastness of the Mediterranean Sea, and belies the fact that we are only 70 miles from Syrian shores. We face west here so the sunsets are spectacular, one can almost sense the infinity that transports you to a greater, wider, unknown world. This is escapism at its best and the hedonistic feelings it nurtures are a tonic in themselves.
I have to pull myself back to reality and venture to the restaurant – there is a choice of a la carte or buffet dining. And more options in the summer when the weather is more suited to outdoor dining. The buffet has an enormous choice of different cuisine, trying to cater to every taste, which they do admirably well. Traditional Cypriot, English, German, Japanese and Asian foods abound, and are colour-coded to allow for the various allergies which affect so many people these days – so one can find gluten-free, nut-free, wheat-free, lactose-free, and vegetarian options in every part of the menu. I make an appointment to speak to the chefs, Socrates and David Bayes. The service is excellent, nothing is too much trouble. I dine on beef carpaccio, roasted sea bass with a saffron mash and sundried tomato tapenade. Moreover, there’s an excellent choice of wines – of which, more later. A very pleasureable experience indeed.
I talk to David Bayes – an Englishman from Norwich who has worked here for 25 years and loves his job. He tells me that, some time ago, the TV presenter Paul Hollywood was the head baker at the hotel. We discuss food sourcing and I learn that the hotel owns a fish farm a short way up the coast – sea bass and red mullet being the most abundant. Towards Nicosia another farm, belonging to the hotel, is the source of all their fruit and vegetables. So much so that they can also supply local needs. These fresh products are delivered to the hotel six days a week. David tells me that close scrutiny is made of the booking lists so that they can identify any special needs or requests from guests. For example, an autistic child, a regular visitor, wants only mashed potato and tomato sauce, another guest is keen to have rice pudding, and another, apple pie. So David examines his clientele and draws up the menus accordingly. This attention to detail is meticulous and also combines with the wine supplies.
I meet the manager of the hotel, Georgios Kassianos, who confirms that there is a careful liaison between food and wine. This is no cursory comment, as President of the Cyprus Sommelier Association he is also wine manager of the hotel, and he invites me to a wine-tasting that is being held later. It is clearly a passion of his. We sample 14 different wines, mostly from local vineyards, but some from further afield – Limassol, Nicosia. The reds are exquisite – my personal favourite being Maratheftiko, a deep garnet red colour with hints of sun-dried figs, dark plums and some notes of honey. There are three grapes indigenous to the region; Xynisteri, Promara and Spourtiko. Although wine has been made here for 5500 years modern technology has revolutionised methods and there is now a greater concentration on quality rather than quantity.
There are also locally vinified, more cosmopolitan, white wines such as Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. We try a wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon – Methy – which has matured in French oak barrels and then aged in the reducing environment of its bottle. Methy is of a deep red hue exuding aromas of green pepper, caper and red-skinned fruits against a background of oak. It has a thick, distinctly balanced taste with a tannic presence, and is locally produced at the K and K Vasilikon Winery in Pafos. Georgios tells me acquired his love and knowledge of wines in London, Chile and Cyprus. I ask what is his favourite – he doesnt’ have to think long before telling me that Riesling is his very favourite, closely followed by Shiraz and Syrah. I wonder how many bottles are stored in the cellars below and he informs me that they keep stocks up to 1000 bottles at any one time and 200 fine wines.
And there is more than wine in the cellars of the Annabelle. Beneath the hotel lies a trove of ancient history, adding an otherworldly dimension to my experience. Recent local, and international, archaeological exploration have determined that this was once the site of an ancient hospital. Human bones and primitive medical instruments have been unearthed. Dating is still in progress, as are further digs, but a labyrinth of tunnels and corridors unfold before us, all beautifully hued in the warm mellow light of the sandstone which has shaped them. It’s a hauntingly mysterious place, eerie and, of course, silent, and one yearns to know more about the people that worked, or were treated, here. Scooped out sections of the sandstone reveal ancient baths. These are catacombs also and one can only marvel to think that human remains lie still for ever in these ancient tombs on the very edge of the Mediterranean. I long to know whether these long dead are from Greek, Roman, Phoenician or Byzantine history. This is a peaceful place and I’m grateful to have seen it – how it fires the imagination.
The hotel offers 14 different categories of rooms for their guests. They range from standard to the Presidential Suite – a sumptuous offering extravagantly decorated with antique furniture, paintings and mirrors, a sunken bath amidst beautiful tiling and gold taps, marble floors, and views across the Mediterranean one can only dream of. Among the hotels celebrated gardens charming little cottages lie secluded among hibiscus, bougainvillea, olive, lemon and orange trees. The fragrance is long-lasting and exquisite. Each cottage has its own outdoor jacuzzi and, inside wood fires. A few steps outside and one is in front of the amphitheatre, on the edge of the sea, and so evocative of the ancient Greek playwrights, Sophocles, Euripides and, of course, Aristophanes and his scatalogical dramas.
In the evening I dine a la carte – a wonderful five course dinner produced by Niktorius and Panayotis. I try the Aberdeen Angus beef which, I am informed, has been allowed to age for a minimum of 21 days to achieve the maximum depth of flavour and tenderness; the other highlight is the dessert – an indulgent dark chocolate and amaretto cake with vanilla sauce.
After dinner I hear the gentle tones of the grand piano in the lounge bar. Svetlana, a talented pianist from Russia, has a fine repertoire and some people are moved to dance while a soft warm breeze wafts in from the balcony. It feels like a tropical night. People stroll around the outer terraces enjoying the warm air, their Metaxa, and the shimmering sea under the moonlight. I return to my suite and gaze out to sea savouring the peace and natural beauty of the place. The kyma are lapping gently at the rocks and I look forward, tomorrow, to discovering the ancient history of Paphos and its delights.
This hotel has it all – setting, scenery, history, luxury, tremendous service, friendly staff and guests. There is no doubt that I shall return.
The Annabelle is part of the Thanos hotel group, which also include the Almyra and Anassa. Built as the first luxury hotel in Cyprus, Annabelle has established itself as an icon over the last three decades. For more information on the hotel and anniversary celebrations, visit www.annabelle.com.
