We first glimpsed Ellenborough Park whilst driving through the outlying Cotswold lanes on a bright winter’s day, our ‘Just Married’ bumper sign trailing behind us all the way from the regency spa town of Cheltenham, the place I had been brought into the world. Things seemed to have come around full circle and Ellenborough, with its turrets and towers loomed large in the horizon, a flag flying full mast, and creating an impression of romance which only a very grand and very old English Manor can provide honeymooners with.
Dating from 1500, the property, formerly known as Southam House, takes its name from the Earl of Ellenborough, resident lord-of-the-manor during the 1830s. It later became a private girls’ school, during which time it lost much of its grandeur, before it was purchased by a consortium in 2008 who recognised its huge potential and mystique and restored Ellenborough to her former glory. Modifying sympathetically, with the help of interior designer Nina Campbell, this 60 bedroom luxury hotel, with purpose built spa complex and outdoor swimming pool, has been demanding attention and reaping awards ever since.
Cheltenham Racecourse is just a half an hour stroll along a direct path. You’ll find Hunter wellies and Dubarry boots in The Boot Room, or if you don’t want to walk a Land Rover will deliver guests directly to the racecourse starting gate. Bedrooms and suites have even been named after famous horses in a sentimental nod to one of the town’s most famous landmarks, and it’s a welcome greeting to the many guests combining their stay with a race meeting. ‘Arkle’, one of Ellenborough’s most decadent and romantic suites, takes its name from the racehorse who achieved 14 major wins between 1964 and 1966, including the Cheltenham Gold Cup on three consecutive occasions.
A 52 square metre master open plan suite, Arkle has its own private ground floor entrance and features enough oak panelling to reconstruct the Mary Rose, a 16th century stone fireplace and an original ornamental plaster ceiling complete with Tudor Roses. I recommend you admire this from the regal four poster bed, which I wouldn’t be the least bit surprised if Henry VIII had slept in. The luxurious bathroom, with speakers and a roll-top big enough for two, proves how successful Ellenborough are at ‘marrying’ old English charm with modern comfort. An adjoining wood-panelled dining room can also be reserved for private events or extremely intimate dinners for two. It’s so grand that I almost had to drag myself away for my arranged spa treatment. We had breakfast in bed the next day and I didn’t even mind when it was late.
David Kelman, a familiar face on the BBC’s Great British Menu, is not only Executive Head Chef of the three AA rosette Beaufort Dining Room, but oversees all Ellenborough’s dining, including the more informal Brasserie. The oak-pannelled Beaufort, with its stained glass windows and antique furnishings is by far the more seductive venue and, although the front of house team seemed a little overwhelmed by the full Saturday night dining room, Kelman’s food possess all the qualities you would expect from a Michelin-starred kitchen and I’m sure such an accolade is just around the corner with a menu showcasing locally-sourced ingredients; from a starter of Wye Valley Asparagus, Pea Cream, Soft Poached Pheasant Egg, followed roast Hereford Cross beef fillet, cep, thyme fondant potato, golden sprouting broccoli, confit onion and tarragon jus.
Kelman’s signature Baked Alaska, comprising of vanilla ice cream and blood orange, dark chocolate and Mandarine Napoléon brandy sauce, flambéed table-side, provided a touch of theatrical and culinary magic. We rounded off the evening with coffee and petit fours in The Great Hall, where the heavy oak beams, imposing Tudor portraits and roaring fire created an atmosphere reminiscent of Wolf Hall. Lounging on one of the plush sofas, I noticed the Indian-motif Nina Campbell fabrics inspired by Edward Law, Earl of Ellenborough’s time as Governor of India, a man not so much remembered for his political career as his choice of wives and mistresses. We all need a little self-indulgence I pondered, accepting a handmade chocolate truffle.
Ellenborough Park, Southam Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL52 3NJ. For more information see the website.
