As if from nowhere, the squadron appears. Squinting into the sun, I watch their large bodies and even larger wingspans; silhouetted against the azure sky, gliding silently overhead.
It doesn’t take a huge leap of imagination, when you find a secluded spot on the Colombian Caribbean coastline and you gaze back at the vast, forested mountain range and down to the swaying palms and the deserted beach with huge and unmovable boulders, to imagine yourself in a prehistoric world. Yet, whilst the huge flying creatures – in this case pelicans – may not have been of the Jurassic nature, it’s a sight you want to savour.
I’ve come with my wife to the north-eastern coast of a country, which in the last few years, as far as opening up to tourism is concerned, is starting to find its feet. Once a no-go area due to the proliferation of the drug trade and the FARC – the left-wing guerilla insurgency – the area’s natural beauty is now being opened up to the world. And that now extends to more Britons after a direct flight from Heathrow, to the country’s capital Bogota, was recently reinstated after more than a decade.
Nestled on the secluded coast at the foot of the imposing Sierra Nevada mountain range – the world’s tallest coastal mountain range and where a myriad of ecosystems live and fluctuate at the slightest twitch in altitude – is the boutique resort of Gitana del Mar in the Tayrona National Park. An idyllic and tranquil spot, shaded by coconut palms, this secluded stretch is our stay for the next three nights.
As one might hope as you travel down a short and dusty road from the main highway 90 which runs along the country’s northern coast, Gitana del Mar is secluded and a world away from the hustle of nearby cities such as Santa Marta or Barranquilla. Comprising of six thatched bungalows, a restaurant, communal area, yoga room and a small spa – all within a few steps of each other, the aim is to immediately drop your bags and turn off.
The bungalows, with their whitewashed brick and open-air bathrooms, traditional thatch roofs are chic but basic – but that’s the idea. If you want A/C, hot running water and live entertainment, there’s a resort for that 10k’s down the road. Here the aim is clearly ‘minimal is best’, with an environmental slant (hence the lack of air conditioning).
Being a Brit who’s been to his fair share of hot countries, Colombia had thrown me into the furnace head-on, certainly when I ventured into the low-lying interior and temperatures reaced 44 degrees. But by the time I had reached Gitana del Mar I had acclimatised somewhat. However, you soon realise the advantage of being able to have several cold showers a day.
Though a fairly new development, the resort is designed to be as unobtrusive to its natural surroundings as possible and much that is prepared and consumed in the excellent restaurant is made on site – including the excellent granola.
Food is also clearly a passion to the owners Ryan and Nina, an American and Colombian couple respectively and was excellent, healthy and varied throughout our stay. The first lunch included freshly caught white fish topped with salsa with rice and coconut salad and fried plantain. Whilst dinner was a succulent chicken stuffed with goat’s cheese and prunes and topped with pesto and sat on a bed of sweet potato mash. The meals are hearty and wholesome, using much of the unique fruits and herbs that are available in the region, where you’ll find familiar dishes given a distinctive twist.
We spent the first afternoon getting used to our surroundings, lazing in the various hammocks or sun loungers and taking in the views of the mountains or watching a herd of cattle walking slowly down the beach. There are excellent massages on offer at Gitana from a local masseuse and a yoga room with views of the beach if you’re inclined – I’m about as flexible as an iron rod, but if you’re going to try it anywhere, there can surely be no better place than here.
By the second day you will most likely want to venture out to see what the region has to offer. There are bountiful opportunities to walk and hike and Minca should certainly be a port of call. The small mountain village is perched some 600m in the Sierra Nevada and is especially famous for its organic coffee – where visitors should buy as much as they possibly can because it’s not exported outside of the region.
Tours of the plantation can be arranged through the resort. At the end of the tour there’s a chance to sample some coffee whilst gazing down at the rainforest canopy from a house perched high above the trees. There’s also a chance to make your own chocolate or, for the ornithologists, a chance to see some native birds. The country has an astonishing 1,876 species of birds and is the most diverse in the world. On several occasions we had up-close and personal encounters with hummingbirds and despite their rapid wing movements, managed to get a few decent photos. And whilst you wander around the region looking for birds, don’t forget to pluck a few of the many mangoes from the trees – they’re about as succulent and juicy as it gets.
Descending the mountains at dusk, we made our way back to Gitana just in time to see the sun set. The staff had been kind enough to set-up dinner for just the two of us on the beach, which was an excellent way to end the day. Welcome back, Colombia.
For more information, visit the website.
