On an island where luxury hotels proliferate like heliotropic flowers along the coastline, each one promising unparalleled delights, the trick is knowing which one to pick. Reflecting Mauritius’ former colonial rulers, hotels tend to attract either a francophone clientèle (think sophisticated Royal Palm) or (such as Le Touessrok) a more Anglo-centric one. It might be an arbitrary distinction, but it’s somewhere to start.
The latest clarion call to luxury comes from Maradiva. The hotel is not entirely new, it has to be said. Following extensive interior redecoration that dispensed with the rather heavy Dutch-Afro-Indian décor, and under new management, the former Taj Exotica was reborn as the much fresher Maradiva, in January last year.
Locally-owned (by the brother-in-law of the former Prime Minister), Maradiva is marketed as “the only 5-star luxury all-villa resort” on the island. The 64 villas that occupy the 11-hectare site are lovely, with cool, modern, textured monochromes, walk-in wardrobe, and spacious marble bathroom, with choice of outdoor shower.
I did wonder why, on an island with so many fragrant plants (there are 120 endemic species in the hotel gardens alone), and given the hotel’s commitment to sustainable values, they use a ubiquitous luxury brand of toiletries as opposed to some local, bespoke potion – but that is a quibble. What makes the rooms special, is the private outdoor covered sitting room, with sofas and dining area, where I would breakfast with rosy-cheeked, Tintin-quiffed bulbuls for company.
There’s a plunge pool, too (every villa has one), complete with sun loungers. Alas, a winking eye to the Middle Eastern market, for whom privacy is key, meant that the view from my bed was of a high green plastic screen (“Only until the trees grow”, I was told), that hermetically sealed me from surrounding nature, the manicured gardens – and any hint of the ocean, a hundred-or-so yards away. This, for me, was more than a quibble: after all, if I am to spend 12 hours in a plane to reach Mauritius, it is for the attraction of its golden sands and azure waters. A sea view – or at least the sound of the lapping waves – is a prerequisite. If you are with me on this, then be sure to book (if you can: they are understandably popular) one of the nine villas that line the 750-metre stretch of beach – which include two Presidential villas worthy of the name.
With 16 two-bedroom villas and a Kid’s Club for parking offspring, Maradiva is a family-friendly resort. Its setting, on the southwest coast, is pretty, facing the UNESCO-listed Le Morne mountain, visible in the distance. I rushed into the tempting, consommé-warm turquoise waters, at the first opportunity, stubbed my toe on broken shards of coral, wished I’d worn reef shoes, and was halted at knee-depth. A floating boundary line, a couple of metres from the shore, guarantees guests’ safety from speeding boats that race through the lagoon beyond that marker.
If swimming is your aim, compensation comes in the form of a large, elegant pool, fringed with palm trees across which a picturesque hammock is slung. Or visit the water sports cabin, where the hotel has a well-kept secret up its sleeve. You can book a (shared) speedboat or glass-bottomed boat to take you snorkelling – as well as waterskiing; and these services are, surprisingly, complimentary.
What of food? you ask. Among the five dining outlets is Cilantro, an excellent Indian restaurant (despite the Italian name) where you can dine on such delights as scallop tandoori, Madras fish curry, and black daal, to the enervating, single-string twang of a tanpura. There’s a barefoot lunchtime Beach Grill (avoid the burgers), and the fine dining Cassine (where I had an excellent dish called Sacré chien – no, not dog, but ruby snapper).
There is also an extensive wine cellar, and a walk-in humidor containing 1,500 cigars. But most noteworthy – if not for the reasons you might expect – was the Japanese restaurant, Haiku. It is headed not by a trained chef, nor even an untrained chef but… by the former Japanese Ambassador who, we were assured, “loves cooking”. We were treated to a teppanyaki dinner – normally an occasion for a virtuoso display of culinary skills – by an unfortunate student of said Ambassador, the unintentional comedy of whose mishaps proved the highlight of an otherwise lacklustre dinner.
There is, however, a compelling reason to choose Maradiva, and that is its Spa. This cocooning complex, with its own double-level pool and relaxing water features, is home to the most comprehensive Ayurvedic spa on the island, headed by the wonderfully insightful Dr. Praveen Nair, formerly of the renowned Ananda in the Himalayas. My 30-minute consultation with him, during which he ascertained my dosha and analysed my temperamental quirks with alarming accuracy, led to his recommendation of an Abhyanga massage.
This blissful experience – a massage using hot medicinal oils custom-made to calm my rampant Vatta, took place on a traditional wooden bed in one of the beautiful Ayurvedic treatment rooms. Absolute heaven! I returned next day to further discuss the principles of Ayurveda with the good doctor, and would happily have spent a week holed up within this peaceful refuge, working my way through the long list of treatments on offer.
Maradiva is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World. Villas at Maradiva start from €800 per night. For more information, including details of experiences and its clefs d’or concierge, please visit www.maradiva.com.
