Marrakech is resilient. It’s bounced back from Covid and from a Richter 6.8 earthquake. There’s not much you can throw at it. And every time I visit, it just gets better. More vibrant. Cleaner. More fun. The ancient medina might be a densely packed maze of alleyways impossible to navigate no matter how sophisticated your tech but there’s charm in the chaos, treasure to be found, friends to be made. Or so I discovered on my most recent visit.
There are more than 1,200 riads packed into the walled medina, a patch of land no bigger than Hyde Park. They are the backbone of the city’s tourism providing chic digs at affordable prices and what with the ‘cost of living’ crisis and hotel rates at an all-time high, the allure of the riad is only getting stronger. I speak from the heart. I’ve always loved a riad. There’s something comforting about their fortress-like walls, the endless pours of mint tea and those heady rooftop views. But do we really need any more of them?
According to Melbourne-born Angela Mellak, owner of Riad Botanica, the newest addition to the city, the answer is yes. ‘You can never have too much of a good thing, right?’
I have to agree. Riad Botanica opened last year (2023) to little fanfare but has made a big impression. Located a stone’s throw from Bab Doukkala mosque, one of the oldest in the medina, it’s walking distance from the main square Jemaa el-Fnaa and stumbling distance from La Mamounia, Royal Mansour and Jasper Conran’s L’Hotel.
It took Angela and her husband Mohammed 11 months to overhaul the riad, converting nine rooms into five characterful suites. Having worked in marketing at Clarins, Angela knew a thing or two about getting the word out and within six weeks, her labour of love was one of the top three riads on Instagram.
Plenty of traditional Moroccan craftsmanship is there – zellige, tadelakt and intricately carved cedar wood – mixed in with bold colourways, art deco touches and hand-painted Florence Broadhurst wallpapers from the 1930s. Not only is the riad stunning, Angela and Mo are some of the most gracious hosts I’ve encountered in all my years of travel writing.
My stay coincided with PURE, an annual conference which meant back-to-back meetings, excursions and events – great for networking but exhausting…Riad Botanica scooped me up each evening, popped me on the rooftop with a beer and prepared me a home-cooked meal, which I enjoyed as the sun went down and the evening call to prayer rang out. On my final night, I was so wiped out, I couldn’t even bring myself to sit at a table so a tray was brought to my room, no questions asked.
The couple know the city back to front. They’re dialled into all the top restaurants and sites to visit. They’ll send you to the best artisans to pick up ceramics and rugs, arrange workshops with local artists and excursions beyond the city limits should you wish to stray a bit further.
It’s only a matter of time before they expand – Angela already has her eye on a property at the base of the Atlas mountains big enough to host yoga, art and writing retreats. Everything she touches is magic so I strongly advise you to watch this space.
Rooms at Riad Botanica start from 150 euros per night including breakfast. For more information, please visit www.riadbotanica.com. Follow Leo on Instagram @leonorabear.
Photos by Alan Keohane
