Sunset over Lustica Bay, Montenegro: the tree-covered mountains cast a shadow over the stoney sandy beach, further out from the shore the sun’s now gentle rays bounce off the Adriatic’ s deeper waters. Like teased out cotton wool balls the wispy clouds are backlit by an ombre sky of indigo, purple and pink. My view of this stunning bay is made all the more magical because I’m seeing it from the sea rather than the shore. I’m kayaking after Aperol Spritzs at the Almara beach club. As I paddle out further the beach club’s music dims and even though my uneven paddling means I go round in a lot of circles, the mixture of soft sunlight and lapping sea water is incredibly soothing.
It feels good to be active on the water rather than just staring at it beyond my toes as I sunbathe. So often I tell myself I’m going to do various activities on a beach holiday but invariably opt for the flop and drop. But in just three days I manage to tick off sea kayaking and paddle boarding – two water sports that have been on my list for as many years.
The calm waters of the Adriatic are perfect for my first attempt at paddle boarding. Instructor Ben came to Montenegro a couple of years ago to work on the yachts and now teaches paddle boarding and sailing in the area with his sail school 42 Degrees North. It takes a while to psyche myself to stand rather than kneel on the board but after some gentle coaxing Ben eventually gets us to stand up . Much like my kayaking my steer and technique are a bit lopsided but I make it back to shore without falling in.
It’s not just about health and fitness on the water: day one of my Montenegrin adventure begins with a poolside yoga session at new development Lustica Bay.
Occupying 690 hectares, the area is being honed by Orascom Development – the same team behind El Gouna in Egypt. Only 6% of the will be built on the rest either left untouched or turned into a 18 hole golf course as well as parkland and a criss cross of hiking and cycling trails. Although the development is still very much a work in progress, (on our visit cranes are moving sand and rocks to create mini sunbathing pontoons and men in hardhats lay stone pathways) eager homeowners have already moved in.
A 176 berth marina and hotel plans show the scope and long timescale of this project but there’s no reason the stunning natural scenery of Boka Bay and the Budva riviera (where Lustica is situated) aren’t enough in themselves to attract tourists to the area – not to mention the yoga retreats and beach club.
Lustica bay is by no means the first development in Montenegro; with berths up to 180 metres long, Porto Montenegro wants to position itself as Europe’s premier marina for the yachting community. Forbeslife magazine put Montenegro as one of the top three destinations to visit in 2015, citing tax discounts and comparatively cheaper fuel costs to the rest of the EU as the primary draws for the super rich. Montenegro’s got more going for that than as just a billionaire’s playground: 180-plus miles of coastline, river canyons and glacial lakes also explain the country’s appeal.
Often referred to as the southernmost fjord in Europe, the Bay of Kotor isn’t one geologically speaking but rather a coastal inlet, it’s still a beaut though and UNESCO-protected to boot. In the daytime we zip across its waters by speedboat, taking in the beauty of town Perast, and two small islands, a church atop each like a cake decoration. While the first is constantly full of visitors the second lies deserted. Our Lady on the Rocks is full of paintings from the seventeenth century to more recent artists; silver plaques, donated by sailors who came to the church to thank the Virgin for protecting them at sea, line the walls and in spite of the church’s small size, the altar is made with four types of marble, a venetian glass chandelier hangs overhead and downstairs rooms house treasures from Chinese porcelain, to old iron keys and even an old singer sewing machine. By comparison, on the opposite St George island, tall dark cypress trees surround a ruined church building, its dilapidated state warning off visitors.
Provided your lungs and hamstrings permit it a hike up Kotor’s old fort walls shouldn’t be missed – if given with a caveat. At one point I’m breathing so heavily I wonder if I’ve developed asthma. Go early morning or late afternoon when the heat is less intense and bring water and ideally sturdy walking trainers. Then reward yourself with a hearty feed after. For lunch with a view, go to one of the many restaurants that surround the bay but perhaps the best time to enjoy the bay is at night.
Eating at Konoba Bokeski Gusti restaurant, we sit out on a jetty, surrounded by the inky black water and pinpricks of light that break up the surrounding dark hillsides. Staff at Konoba have to cross the road each time they bring us fresh food (huge bowls of mussels to share as a starter, followed by platters of grilled octopus, snapper and more) and drink (carafes of strong hearty local red wine). Accordion music drifts up from the restaurant’s patch of beach and a Russian family divert the wait for food with dancing, the 8 year old boy’s cossack dance moves are particularly good.
Another restaurant worth mentioning includes the chic Ribarsko Selo. Take a swim and sunbathe on one of the restaurant’s own sunbeds at Zanjic beach before sitting down to ceviche, savoury ice cream, squid ink risotto and the catch of the day. We skip the swim but take a speedboat to Mamula and the Blue Cave instead.
It seems we’re never far from the sea in this particular part of Montenegro – and that suits me just fine.
For more information about Lustica Bay, including details of the residences and investment opportunities, and new announcements, visit www.lusticabay.com.
