That evening our first Michelin-starred dinner awaited at Bohemia restaurant, so with no time to lose (just weight) we headed off for a post-lunch ramble around the nearby fishing port of Rozel. A quaint cove of white sands this snug bay is a popular local haunt for an al fresco lunch. North of Rozel, the east coast’s hidden coves give way to the northern coastline’s dramatic rugged cliffs – a haven for hikers. We headed to Rozel point and managed to slipstream a local fisherman masterfully dancing across the craggy rocks and tiptoeing across a makeshift bridge towards the peak where we stood looking out across the Channel at nothing but a misty horizon – bliss.
Having worked off our lunch we had just enough time to enjoy a Longueville Manor afternoon tea – I can safely say that that fluffy scone, engulfed in thick Jersey clotted cream, will feature in my dreams from now on. It also came with a side of ‘black butter’ a traditional Jersey conserve that combines cider, apples, lemons, liquorice and spice – and tastes like Christmas in a jam.
Donning my most forgiving elasticated dress and creating a stomach-distracting bouffant that Elnett would be proud to sponsor we were soon off to Bohemia in the nearby capital of St.Helier. Currently the highest rated restaurant on the island and having held a star for a decade it was Bohemia that first kicked off Jersey’s Michelin-starred culinary scene. Headed up by Chef Steve Smith the restaurant caters to a huge array of tastes with eight different menus available to choose from. The restaurant has a 60s style interior and a separate bar area, both of which were surprisingly quiet on our visit. At first we were a little confused, but as the plates began to flow it all made sense – at Bohemia, the food is the star of the show.
Steve Smith obviously enjoys playing with texture, creating an element of surprise and intrigue in each dish. Every course was a delight but they saved the best until last…in a Heston-esque playful manipulation of texture, what seemed to be a red velvet sponge arrived. As my spoon touched the sponge it cracked, it was actually a shell of air-sprayed burgundy cocoa butter which enveloped layers of indulgence: a crunchy toasted hazelnut praline base topped with a smooth coffee chocolate mousse, followed by a zingy whiskey and lemon jelly and a malty dulcey chocolate mousse. Now that is a pudding worthy of a gold star if ever I have seen one – no wonder this ‘Whiskey Pudding’ was announced as Britain’s 6th best dish by the Sunday Times Food List.
Having slept off the Bohemian decadence of the night before amidst dreams of gold-encrusted plates, magic chocolates and flowing champagne, Sam and I jumped into a pair of the hotel’s help-yourself Hunter wellies and walked off yet another hearty brekkie before heading to the spa. This new addition to the hotel is worth booking early, it has just one treatment room currently but my REN massage courtesy of therapist Natasha eased away my walking wounds and left me raring to continue my Jersey treasure hunt.
With not one, but two Michelin-starred restaurants planned for the day it was time to get hiking! Inspired by the beauty that we had seen in the distance from Rozel the day before, we headed to the island’s northern coast to the historic Devil’s Hole. This giant crater is thought to have gained its dramatic name when a shipwreck washed in to the cavern back in 1851. A local then decided to get the wrecked wooden figurehead carved in to a statue of the devil. Today a metal replica of the statue stands within a pool on the way to the crater, setting the scene for this dramatic clifftop walk.
Having taken in the turquoise waters, rocky coves and gorse-lined paths of the north, we were ready to venture west, for our Michelin-starred lunch at Ocean Restaurant. Sandy St.Ouen’s bay dominates the western coast and an inland a wetland area is thriving with birdlife. With the weather having taken a rapid turn from Autumnal sun to wild wind and rain we braved a walk along the popular beach towards The Altantic Hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Ocean.
Stepping in to this pristine restaurant is reminiscent of boarding an elegant ocean liner. The spacious dining room is clearly inspired by its coastal surrounds with a classic muted palate of sand, slate and perfectly starched white tablecloths framed by shuttered windows overlooking the Atlantic. Chef Mark Jordan is dedicated to working with genuine local produce and on our visit we sampled the exclusive local beef from Manor Farm which can only be enjoyed at Ocean Restaurant. However, as the name suggests, it is the seafood that reigns supreme here and on our visit the lobster, caught straight from the bay below, was a winner – mixing moist poached flesh with delicate tempura and Ebene caviar it looked like a piece of art and tasted like a little bit of heaven.
Suitably stuffed we stepped out in to the salty gail and made our way along the last stretch of the Jersey coast left for us to discover- the south. Our journey took us past the island’s busiest resort beach, St. Brelade’s bay and towards the island’s capital, St. Helier. In the distance, on a rocky islet, Elizabeth Castle sprung to life, dramatically illuminated against the backdrop of the sea. Having defended the island for 300 years (from invaders, not the tax man), the historic castle has played host to everyone from Sir Walter Raleigh (former Governor of Jersey) to King Charles II. Today, the castle can be reached on foot at low tide, or by two jolly boats named Charming Betty and Charming Nancy at high tide. Now this really is the stuff that childhood dreams are made of, once inside you can do everything from climb the battlements to explore the turrets and bunkers – and then finish off on the beach with an ice cream, what’s not to love?
With just hours to go before bedtime, we had just enough room to fit in one more Michelin star and headed off to Ormer. Named after a local shellfish the two-tiered restaurant is reminiscent of a stylish Parisian bistro (think a more subtle Balthazar), marrying cosy teal velvet sofas with art deco chandeliers and an open kitchen where acclaimed chef Shaun Rankin and his team are busy at work. We perused the menu but with only hours left on this magical island there was one clear choice, I loosened the belt and ordered the tasting menu. It featured dishes such as scallops with glazed chicken wings and roasted foie gras with Beaufort cheese veloute but our favourite dish by far was the first; cubes of fresh raw tuna with avocado puree, Bloody Mary jelly and cucumber sorbet, genius.
Defeated by Jersey’s calorific generosity and somewhat tipsy, we headed back to Longueville and there was one feature still to try… the outdoor hot tub. I’m not going to lie, a bikini was a daunting affair after the 48 hour eatathon I had just completed. Just as we sunk in to the forgiving waters which released their steam in to the crisp autumn air a torrential rainstorm began. Sam and I looked at each other for a second and then shook out heads, shut our eyes, and embraced the Jersey elements.
This island may only by 9 miles by 5 miles, but as my Grandfather once said, you don’t get diamonds as big as bricks, and we were savouring every second of this dreamy isle.
Longueville Manor is the only Relais & Châteaux and AA 5 Red star hotel in the Channel Islands. Offering hospitality of exceptional excellence it is owned and managed by the 2nd generation of the Lewis family.
Mid-week Indulgent Breaks (valid to March 31 2015) are from £440 per couple including of 2 nights’ B&B in a classic double room, group 1 car-hire for the duration, champagne afternoon tea for 2 and one Cottage Garden spa treatment to the value of £65. Guests are also welcomed on arrival with a gift in their room and invited to a 3rd consecutive night free of charge on a B&B basis. For more information and bookings, visit www.longuevillemanor.com or call 01534 725501.
For information about Jersey, activities and special offers, visit www.jersey.com or call 01534 44 88 00.
