I love Lewes, the chocolate-box town in East Sussex, boasting a striking patchwork of beamed and pastel-coloured period shop fronts and residences largely dating from the Georgian period. Then there’s the etiquette of how to pronounce it. It should be “loo-is” but I have an annoying habit of falling into “loo-wez”. Whatever you opt for you’re likely to be corrected by the locals, so just mumble vaguely like I do. The town boasts many interesting independent shops such as Paul Clark, the traditional gentleman’s outfitter, and Lewisiana, a tea room-come-florist describing itself as “a feast for all senses” and also happening to be an appointed retailer of Dr Hauschka skincare.
Monty’s is my favourite place to stay, being located on the high street in a five-storey Victorian property, and far from feeling like a typical B&B is more like a swanky studio apartment. With just one room it takes ‘exclusive’ to another level and is understandably booked out many weeks in advance for the annual Glyndebourne opera festival, just a 9 minute drive away. Guests are given the front door key to come and go as they please and it’s well worth the strenuous climb up countless flights of stairs in order to gaze upon the magnificent exposed beams.
A vast space, the like of which you’d be paying ‘penthouse’ prices for in any hotel, it boasts a free standing roll-top bath in one corner, a kitchenette in the other, and a luxurious shower room. The oak four poster bed emphasises the drama of the ceiling height, as do the large industrial-style ceiling lamps. Another prominent feature is a trendy spotlit wall on which art books are displayed as if they were precious ornaments, and where you can glean information on just about anything from Coco Chanel to African art – ideal for curling up on the chaise lounge on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
From blackout electric blinds for the skylight to large bottles of Clarins products, the proprietor, Vicky Richards, thinks of everything. This residence is stamped all over with its very own brand of sophistication and luxury. Quite frankly I’m getting bored of hotels removing mini bars in order to prevent you chilling the bottle of wine or champagne you packed in your suitcase – forcing you to call room service, complete with ‘tray charge’. I once stayed at a hotel that refused to provide an ironing board ‘due to health and safety reasons’ and insisted they send someone from housekeeping to my room to iron whatever it was, and for which they charged a frankly obscene amount. Another hotel found it acceptable to place a price list in the bathroom targeting guests who had forgotten their toothbrush. It really isn’t very welcoming. Rest assured – Monty’s is.
We discovered two generous slices of Vicky’s delicious carrot cake and a mini bottle of wine and a couple of beers in the fridge, along with fresh milk for the tea and coffee making facilities (a vast improvement on hotel-standard UHT), along with roasted bar nuts to go with our drinks. It’s these thoughtful touches which leaves you feeling truly looked after and, whilst Montys states that rates are ‘accommodation only’ Vicky knocks the door in the morning and leaves a tray of fresh fruit and warm croissants. There is also a carafe of orange juice in the fridge to go with it and, if you fancy popping to one of the local bakeries, you’ll find a toaster in the cupboard. Make yourself at home.
Monty’s is conveniently located next door to Pizza Express, handy if you fancy collecting a takeaway and watching a film, but my recommendation would be to book a table at the wonderful family-run Limetree Kitchen which serves comforting classics expertly prepared, from an intensely flavoured bouillabaisse to slow roasted shoulder of salt marsh lamb, or just a good locally-sourced steak. When it comes to dessert, chocolate lovers should bear in mind that the chef-proprietor, Alex Von Riebech, started out as a chocolatier. The trio of chocolate featured a scoop of home-made chocolate sorbet that will live with me for a long time.
But beyond anything else, you return to the Limetree Kitchen for the infectiously warm ambiance and the fact that even a little old lady nursing a coffee for the entire duration of our meal was heartily welcomed and known to all the staff by her first name. Alex, who moved to Lewes from South London a few years ago, is not just a good chef, but a host who truly loves his guests. We followed this with a glass of wine or two at Symposium, an independent wine merchant and wine bar just around the corner, rounding the evening off nicely and making Lewes a rather enjoyable place to spend the weekend or a night en route to Brighton. Hold on – I may even relocate here. Better call Kirsty and Phil.
