City breaks have a way of leaving me more exhausted than enlightened. A sprint round the sights of an unnamed capital city. A frantic fling with local foods. A mania of museums. All chased down with a race to an out-of-town airport for the inevitable return Ryanair debacle. Sure, they’re an exciting diversion from the everyday, but at breakneck speed and with all the delight of a multiple choice exam taken while running a 5k. While the modern workplace echoes with the mantra of work-life balance, the only balance a rushed city break brings is that of the tightrope act so action-packed that Monday rises like the floor to a falling acrobat.
So, what’s to be done? Add some outdoor to counterpoint the indoor? Mix in some wilderness with the city? Take time to absorb local culture instead of blitzing through a rapid-fire PowerPoint of art and action? Let’s see if we can find a more balanced approach to the city break.
Salzburg, just a hop, skip and a 1hr 40min flight from London, perches near the Austria-Germany border like a conductor’s baton poised mid-symphony. With Alpine peaks looming on one side and an imposing 11th-century fortress resplendent in the centre, the city is a picture of grandeur. As Austria’s fourth-largest city, Salzburg might not win any size contests, but with Mozart as its favourite son and as the setting for The Sound of Music, it’s certainly punching above its weight in the culture department. Brown paper packages tied up with strings? Nah, but you’ll find plenty of Mozart chocolates and other favourite things.
First things first, let’s conquer the lofty fortress that sits smack in the centre of the city – it’s the perfect spot to get your bearings and pretend you’re a medieval lookout (minus the risk of invading hordes). From its terraces, you’ll get an eyeful of the Alps to the south, the old city with its myriad churches to the north, and to the east, the Capuchin monastery, whose order played a key role in the city’s founding and development.
Next, take a wander through the old town. Its maze of quaint shops and historical alleys offers a pleasant escape, perfect for some retail therapy. Even the biggest international brands nod to local traditions with iron signs hanging above their doors, making you feel like you’re strolling through a storybook. Swing by Mozart’s birthplace – no, you can’t hear ‘Eine kleine Nachtmusik’ playing on loop – and then twirl your way out to the Mirabell Gardens, made famous by a certain musical family skipping around singing musical scales one do-re-mi at a time. Just resist the urge to hop on the fountain and belt out a tune – the locals have heard enough scales to last them a lifetime.
For a less fanciful taste of Salzburg’s spirit, plan your visit around one of its year-round festivals. If it’s a party you’re after, the festival of St Rupert, Salzburg’s founder from way back in 696 AD, brings out a sea of Dirndls and Lederhosen spilling out of festival tents. For a dose of high culture, the Salzburg Festival in July and August is all about opera, music, and dance. And if a winter trip is more your style, the twinkling lights, shopping, and mulled wine of the Christmas markets in December could be right up your festive alley.
But when the festival buzz quiets down and you’re ready to explore beyond the city centre, how about starting your second day with a trip up the Untersberg for a breath of crisp Alpine air? Then it’s back down to earth with a stroll through the zoo, a barefoot wander in the Hellbrunn gardens, a cheeky splash at the trick fountains, and finally, a return to the city for a well-earned dinner.
The city’s cuisine hits the expected notes: bratwurst, sauerkraut, and pretzels, but there’s a growing movement to highlight the best of the region, with lake-caught fish, dumplings made from local veg, and beautifully cured meats. And of course, everything’s washed down with the ever-present beer. And this is serious beer country, the kind of place where the amber nectar is quaffed with equal gusto by lederhosen-clad locals and wide-eyed tourists alike.
Stiegl, Salzburg’s most famous tipple, has a tasting room tucked neatly at the foot of the fortress’s mountain, and their enormous brewery complex is temptingly close to the airport. Handy for a last-minute pint, eh? Local, smaller breweries like Kaiser Karl and Thalheim are also easy to find. They offer a cracking selection, from crisp lagers and hazy zwickels to funkier white beers, making the rounds in bars and restaurants. The lineup is rounded off with fuller-bodied, complex märzens and rich, malty dunkels.
I know what you’re thinking. ‘Much like every other city break I’ve been on!’ I hear you cry. ‘Where’s all this balance you keep banging on about?’ Well, hold onto your stein, because Salzburg’s got a few surprises up its sleeve.
Rosewood, Lake Fuschl
Just a 25-minute drive from Salzburg’s bustling streets, Lake Fuschl feels like a different world altogether. The water here is crystal clear, maintained to near drinking-water quality, a serene spectacle set against the Alpine backdrop. With motorised boats banned (except for the local fire service and the sole licensed fisherman), the lake is blessedly quiet, a haven of stillness where you can actually hear yourself think. It’s the kind of place where you swap the city’s hum for the soft splash of a paddleboard, yours truly included, gliding across those cool, clear waters. A refreshing antidote to Salzburg’s hustle, if ever there was one.
While lakeside, don’t miss the culinary equivalent of a standing ovation – the smoked fish rolls from the legendary fisherman’s Fischerei and smokehouse. These punchy parcels, stuffed with plump peach-wood smoked lake trout, landed mere feet away, and spiked with nose-tingling horseradish, the perfect accomplice to the sweet, smoky fish. And if you’re lucky enough to visit as autumn approaches, the Fischerei also delivers a hearty fish stew, using the same trout to create something a bit more warming for those crisp days.
So, if you’ve stuffed yourself silly with fish and are wondering how to shift from couch potato to mountain goat, you’re in luck. We’re right on the edge of the Alps here, with all manner of mountain-focused activities begging to be tried. A 10,000km of hiking trails criss-cross the local peaks, offering everything from multi-day treks to quick hour-long jaunts up to a mountain hut. And if you’re feeling knackered from all that city traipsing and mountain meandering, hop on the Schafbergbahn, a cog railway that climbs 1,200 metres up the Schafberg for some absolutely ludicrous views.
With all these activities, the adventure doesn’t end there. Mountain biking, road cycling (watch out for those climbs), canyoning, rafting, paragliding, skiing in winter, this place is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream. A place to develop and extend your endurance. And trust me, you’ll need it. The mountain food is demanding, to say the least. Even the preferred snack, Jause, which is basically Austrian tapas, resplendent in cured meats, local cheeses, and dark, hearty rye bread. The perfect bite for a weary mountaineer. And if you need something more substantial to get you through the rest of the hike? Enter the legendary Käsespätzle. Imagine macaroni cheese, but in dumpling form, packing enough energy to fuel a small power plant.
Fräulein Maria’s Bicycle Tour
So, did I find the balance I was looking for? Absolutely. Salzburg’s mix of city culture and Alpine calm felt like the perfect antidote to the usual rush of a city break. From Mozart and museums to mountain lakes and hearty Käseknödel, this trip offered the best of both worlds, a chance to savour, not sprint; to take in the views instead of ticking boxes. Sure, I still did my fair share of traipsing, but this time with the promise of a mountain hut, a paddleboard, or a cold beer waiting at the end. In Salzburg, I learned that a great city break isn’t about how much you cram into your itinerary, it’s about how much of it you truly take in. And that, dear reader, is a lesson worth its weight in dumplings.
If you’re keen to snag that perfect Salzburg balance – equal parts culture, adventure, and sheer relaxation – here are some stellar places to kick back and stay awhile:
Arabella Jagdhof Resort am Fuschlsee
Just 25 minutes from Salzburg (35 minutes by bus), this hotel is the ideal base for a balanced city trip. Easily accessible, reasonably priced, and boasting a great pool, gym, and in-house restaurant, it offers everything you need for a comfortable stay. Rooms from €154 per night
Newly opened in an 11th-century castle, the Schloss Fuschlsee offers a top-of-the-range experience to discerning guests. With 3 restaurants, 2 bars, a lakeside club, and an extensive spa, this place treats guests to the ultimate pampering. Rooms from €650 per night
Delightfully placed on the shore of St. Wolfgangsee, an hour from Salzburg, is the funky, friendly Seevilla. Replete with a yoga studio, an incredible pool hovering mere feet above the lake, and direct lake access for that post-sauna cold plunge, Seevilla is a great base to explore the lake’s villages, especially their Christmas markets. Rooms from €287 per night
For those with a two-wheeled trip aspiration, the Hotel Jakob is designed for you. With Canyon bike rental, access to Lake Fuschl for triathletes in training, an in-house spa, and regular road bike and triathlon training camps, it’s the ideal place to train for your upcoming event, tick off some KOMs, while still enjoying your city break. A hotel ideal for the radler. Rooms from €133 per night
The Salzburg Card is a great option if you’re planning to cover the local sights, covering entry to the majority of attractions, plus some decent discounts and free public transport. A great option for €31 a day or €40 for two. The Five Treasures Card gives access to the Schafberg, boat connections to between the villages round the Wolfgangsee, the funicular to the fortress in Salzburg, and access to the Wasserspiel, for the combined cost of €90 per adult. For more information about Salzburg, and to start planning your trip, please visit the official tourism website at www.salzburg.info.
