As we begin our journey towards the Garden Route – the wild and picturesque stretch of coastal plain between Mossel Bay and the brilliantly named Storms River Mouth – we stop off first in Hermanus; well actually, it’s not strictly Hermanus, it’s a place called Sandbaai which bleeds into its slightly more famous neighbour. Sandbaai is not a particularly attractive town. Urban sprawl and, whilst we were there, protracted road works took me by surprise as I was expecting a small and quaint fishing town. So it’s fortunate then, Schulphoek Seafront Guest House, does just what its name states, offering incredible, unobstructed views of the sea – as close as you can get without actually being in it. A small, quiet road and a smattering of rocks are all that separates you from the wild, southern Atlantic Ocean.
If you’re lucky enough to stay in the Oyster Room (essentially the room with the best outlook), then the view is almost 180 degrees of unobstructed ocean. If you’re there at the right time of year you may witness what many come to this part of the world from July to November to see: whales. The region trumpets itself as the whale capital of the world – Hermanus, located a couple of miles up the road, even has an official town whale crier, announcing through a dried kelp horn, any news of the latest sightings. There’s even a whale festival in August in honour of the returning whales during the calving season.
You certainly don’t have to be lucky to see one at this time of year, or even embark on a BBC nature-style stake out to witness the awesome spectacle: the huge spurt of water from the blowhole or the slap of the tail – as they’re in abundance. You can even get up close and personal with the great creatures by pretending you’re Captain Ahab and sea kayaking. Though chartered whale flights are also available if you prefer to see them from above and at a safe distance.
If whales are a little tame for your liking and you prefer something involving a tad more adrenaline, then the area is also known for its abundance of those other great sea creatures, Great White sharks. But if it’s relaxation you’re after – and I certainly was after getting in a cramped cage and coming face-to-face with fourteen Great White sharks for three hours – then, the confines of Schulphoek, named after the bay it overlooks, amply provides that.
The owners Petro and her husband Mannes, who is also the chef at the five-star guest house, have clearly attempted to make it as homely and welcoming an atmosphere as possible. As Mannes cooks in the large open kitchen, Petro joins guests for dinner at a social table (though you can sit separately if you want a little privacy) and is an excellent host and knowledgeable about the local area.
Food and wine is clearly something they take pride in, with patches of carefully tendered herbs and home grown vegetables situated among rows of French lavender in the garden area. It also has an excellent wine cellar, which boasts some 7,000 bottles of local and regionally sourced wine. Guests are invited into the wine cellar each evening to pick a bottle before dinner.
The four course meals were delicious – with the venison steak and pepper sauce being one of the highlights. Another speciality was the flame-grilled kudu – an antelope that has a distinctive gamey taste – with red wine reduction. Desserts were also excellent, with the peanut butter and ginger milk tart with ginger liqueur dressing being a particular favourite of mine.
The rooms are beautifully decorated and incredibly comfortable with all the facilities you might need such as DVD and TV, Jacuzzi bath and king size bed – and the Scallop Room has an excellently stocked mini bar which is included in the room price. There’s also an honesty bar in the lounge.
To walk off all this indulgence, 9km of coastal path can be accessed from the guest house to Onrus Beach and Vermont. The hardest thing here is to strike that balance between relaxation and embarking on the many activities. My favourite thing? Simply to sit and watch the sunset with a tipple.
