In Peacock Alley – the deliciously decadent lounge area of the Waldorf Astoria Caledonian Hotel in Edinburgh – there is a grand-looking, officious clock. As the original station clock for the Edinburgh rail station that, until the 1960s, sat in what is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, it may confuse you. You see, it runs five minutes ahead of schedule. The reason? To stop passengers being late for their departures. But while it holds great significance in its history, and plays into the hotel’s theme of “rail-era chic”, it should be equally ignored. For this is a hotel that few would want to rush away from; instead, one finds oneself desiring to take advantage of every last minute while behind its walls.
Fresh from a £24 million renovation, The Caledonian is now a part of the famed Waldorf Astoria chain, and boasts two restaurants by the Galvin Brothers and a Guerlain Spa. Located at the corner of the crossroads of central Edinburgh’s Princes Street and Lothian Road, the burnt copper facade of The Caledonian faces the towering castle and the ancient grandeur of the Parish Church of St Cuthbert. During a visit with my partner on a nippy December weekend we were also treated to the bright lights of the Christmas market, blinking and twinkling in the distance.
We arrived at The Caledonian in early afternoon, greeted by a composed but friendly looking top-hatted doorman who called my other half, “Sir.” As we stepped inside, we were overcome with the classic charm of the lobby with its expansive but delicate amber and bronze chandelier dangling above, cream and gold accents and rectangular, navy trunk-style desks. It was if I’d been whipped back to the 1920s and I wanted to be wearing a cascading Chanel dress rather than my woollen hat and bulky coat.
Our third floor suite overlooked the castle and had been renovated in muted steel grey and cream colours with a thick, gold and navy thistle accented wallpaper strip running just below the roof line. While not expansive, the room was luxurious, with huge floor-to-ceiling windows (accented with heavy, grey and blue drapes) providing the perfect viewing pod of the city’s beauty in both daylight and as the castle and church grounds lit up after dark. A set of six small painted pictures in side-by-side frames above the fluffy bed also stood out, adding a modern touch to the classic elegance of the room that paired well with the presence of an ultra-sleek Nespresso coffee machine. The bathroom stayed firmly within the refined sphere; it was all black and white accents, with a huge, inner-lit mirror running along one wall. The only time there was a departure from the perfection was when I noted a large chip in the glass of the shower door and a missing tap handle – two things I would think would be fixed quickly in such a high-end establishment. Regardless, it was easy to relax in the room’s comfort – a fact that only increased when we received a small box of handmade chocolates delivered to our door soon after arrival.
While at The Caledonian we made sure to explore its various offerings – including enjoying a fantastic whisky tasting one evening under the gold-toned lights and grandeur of Peacock Alley with bar manager Ben Walker, a veritable encyclopaedia of whisky knowledge. We also partook in an exquisite meal at one of the two Galvin restaurants – the downstairs Brasserie du Luxe, a French restaurant with a railway theme, complete with brass buttoned navy and brown chairs, long booths that remind one of age-old rail seats and a beautiful and alluring circular seafood and Champagne bar. The spa was not yet open when we visited, but as the first Guerlain spa in the UK, it will no doubt fit in perfectly with the high-end focus.
In the mornings we took in the expansive breakfast buffet – while I would have preferred to order food fresh to order (as I would expect a hotel of this standard to also offer) the buffet was perfectly acceptable for breakfast, with a selection of hot foods, fresh baked items, fruit, cheese and smoked salmon.
The real stand-out for me is that the hotel covers all bases in a sumptuous fashion: the restaurants are top notch; the staff effortlessly charming in that wonderfully Scottish way; the lounge area the most grand, yet comfortable, space I’ve experienced of its kind in a UK hotel; and, the rooms overlooking the castle are magical. It is sure to become a hit with the fashionable and celebrity clientele visiting this fantastic capital of Scotland. But if you do go, just make sure to ignore that runaway clock and indulge yourself in every minute you get to be there.
