All places are hybrids, I suppose, bearing the imprints of various cultures and colonisers. Yet in few locations is this as quirkily and strikingly on show as in Bermuda. While the powdery pink-speckled sand, balmy temperatures and breathtakingly clear turquoise sea, would suggest it’s in the Caribbean, quaint place names conjure up Ye Olde England (Southampton, Smith’s and Pembroke are among the island’s eight ‘parishes’), the traffic lights are identical to those on our High Streets and Waitrose products fill their supermarket shelves. Then again, you spend US dollars in stores and all the houses are painted the same sherbet shades as Miami’s South Beach. Even the accent has twangs of Irish, Canadian and American, and their conversation is peppered with old-fashioned English words such as “moreso” and “whatnot”, even the teenagers’. It all makes for an endearing medley.
Of course, the eclectic combination all makes perfect sense when you consider the geography and history of this seahorse-shaped island – none of which I knew much about before my visit, admittedly. A seven hour flight from London, Bermuda lies all alone in the mid-Atlantic. It lies on the roughly same longitude as South Carolina, rather than being anywhere near Barbados or Barbuda despite it often mistakenly being lumped in with these places. The island became an English colony quite by chance in 1609, when settlers en route to the New World ran into a storm and swam ashore. They initially spent nine months here, building two new ships to replace the wrecked Sea Venture. Accounts of this episode apparently inspired Shakespeare to write The Tempest.
Bermuda’s naval heritage remains visibly etched into its landscape, in the form of the many fortresses, dockyards and canons (these have come in handy for scaring away approaching Armada ships) along its coastline. Perhaps the best place to really get to grips with this fascinating slice of colonial history, though, is in St George’s, the picturesque former capital and UNESCO World Heritage site, especially on one of the lively re-enactment tours. Kicking off at Tucker House, an 18th century merchant’s home, these take in everything from the gallows in the town square to St Peter’s church with its striking cedar wood interior.
Today, however, Bermuda’s capital is Hamilton – which also happens to be the smallest capital city in the world – and this is where I was staying, at the candyfloss pink, harbour-side Fairmont Hamilton Princess. Large and luxurious, if a little dated, guests from May onwards will be in for a treat as a brand new free-form infinity pool, open-air waterfront restaurant and sleek suites are all due to open. The hotel’s art collection is also impressive – I spied original pieces by Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst on display the reception – but the biggest draw for me had to be the endless stream of edibles in its opulent lounge for Fairmont Gold guests; from afternoon tea to pre-supper canapés to late-night cookie fixes, you’re certainly never going to go hungry there.
On the subject of food, Bermudian culinary specialties tend to make the most of its teeming coastal waters. The two most ubiquitous and must-try dishes are fish chowder, its spicy, tomato-based broth flavoured with sherry peppers and rum, and fish sandwiches, the best of which is to be found at no-frills joint Art Mel’s Spicy Dicy. For more elegant dining, there’s chic, airy Asian fusion restaurant Blu (the caviar, scallops and crispy salmon skin maki was the best sushi I’ve ever had) or the more traditional Ascot’s. As for cocktails, the fruity Rum Swizzle and ginger beer-based Dark and Stormy are de rigour.
With all that eating and drinking, it’s a good job there’s no shortage of activities on offer. Indeed, it would be a great waste to spend a trip here purely lazing by the pool and miss the eye-watering natural beauty of Bermuda’s jungles, caves and coves. The best for taking in all three is the Hidden Gems eco-tour. Starting out at the rambling Secret Garden-style ruins of the Southlands Estate where one can do their best Tarzan impression swinging on Banyan tree vines, it goes onto Marley Bay, a beach every inch as stunning as the world famous Horseshoe Bay yet somehow virtually deserted, and the secluded lagoons and crystal caves of Tom Moore’s. I’m not normally a fan of organised tours, but the passion and knowledge of guide Ashley is infectious, so much so that before long I’m delighting in discovering the varied flora and fauna – from tequila plants to sun-bathing lizards to wonder plant Catch Me If You Can with leaves that apparently cure everything from sunburn to colds.
Another brilliant way to explore the island is to take a horse-ride from Spicelands, following quiet trails scented with wild-growing fennel and all spice down to the pink-speckled sands of Warwick Long Bay and Stonehole Bay.
With such sights and smells to stimulate the senses, easy to see why so many creatives have found inspiration in Bermuda over the years. At the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda I learn that John Lennon wrote his final album on holiday here in 1980, getting the name ‘Double Fantasy’ from a freesia in the Botanical Gardens, while it was in Bermuda that Georgia O’Keeffe began to draw again in the 1930s as she recuperated from severe depression. Mark Twain was one of the island’s earliest famous fans, writing in ‘Innocents Abroad’ that: “A few days among the breezy groves, the flower gardens, the coral caves and the lovely vistas of blue water that went curving in and out […] restored the energies dulled by long drowsing on the ocean.”
Whether you arrive via a British Airways flight or a languorous cruise à la Mr Twain, this certainly is the perfect place to restore ones energies. And while there are scores of sandy islands around the world to escape to for such purposes, Bermuda’s hybrid of Anglo, American and Caribbean influences makes it truly unlike anywhere else.
Purely Bermuda offers two centre itineraries; city plus beach. 3 nights at the newly remodelled Fairmont Hamilton Princess followed by 6 nights at the Fairmont Southampton beach resort costs from £1,539 per person on a room only basis, based on two people sharing. Departures from June to December and must be booked by 30 June 2014. Prices include flights with British Airways direct from London Gatwick, 9 nights’ accommodation and roundtrip private airport transfers. For more details, freephone 08000 336 335 or visit the website.
For further information about Bermuda please visit: www.gotobermuda.co.uk
